Tobacco Dock in London’s East End, where the Emporio Armani collection was released, is a world away from city’s high-end shopping district.
“I love London,” he said after the show in the giant old building, now showing no sign of its industrial origins. Grammy-nominated singer Ellie Goulding, actress Naomi Scott, singer-songwriter Tom Odell and rapper Dizzee Rascal were all in attendance.
The iconic designer worked with the British Fashion Council on a competition to give BFC college students the chance to collaborate on his spring/summer 2018 collection. The winners created a bomber jacket, bag and shoes in the Armani spirit but with a British twist as part of a capsule collection that will go on sale at UK Emporio stores.
In spite of this tilt towards a younger clientele and decision to show in an soon-to-be regenerated area, the clothes looked clean and colorful, starting with a white trouser suit that might not be best choice for the Wapping docklands locale. Naive patterns of animals and objects offered colorful decoration, along with stripes in red, white and blue.
This was a merged men’s and women’s collection, but it leaned towards colorful women’s vacation clothes based on patterned jackets and plain pants. The sweaters were bigger and heavier but the skirts were light as air. While the women dressed more casually, the men were given more sober dark suits.
Then came pastel and peach colors (for women) mixing azure, grass queen and turquoise with some slightly shadier versions of rose hip and hibiscus.
Lined up at the back of the stage as Armani came to take his bow, the palette was an ode to summer and to prettiness.
When moved uptown to the designer’s store, the clothes will seem much more realistic than in the up-and-coming area where millennials, as in everywhere across the world, do not draw gender lines between styles or consider specific colors as exclusive to one sex.
In the refurbished Emporio Armani New Bond Street store, shopping for men and women is kept apart – although each has a generous space, with men’s clothing and accessories on the floor coming in from the street and women’s offerings down a large, marble staircase.
The store could not be more different to Armani‘s show space. However, the designer enjoyed taking the LFW pack away from the usual hot spots to a less well-known part of the city.