Molly Goddard and Halpern make dresses for disco, dancing and fun.
The worse the world gets, the more fashion turns the other rouged-and-powdered cheek. With red carpet brashness looking too much in a post-Weinstein era, designers are looking for ways to handle fashion celebration.
Molly Goddard: Capering in the kitchen
Has Molly Goddard ever given a show without glasses and bottles on the table ready for a glamorous party scenario? This season, she became more down-to-earth – or should that be down-to-the-kitchen? Models in their party dresses walked down a runway lined with sideboards stacked with carrots – a more evident offering than canapés.
The dresses matched the at-home look, for while a skirt might be in golden frills or coral taffeta, the puffy looks of the past had deflated to more reasonable shapes. Waists were pitched slightly higher or lower and hemlines more mid-calf than mini, so the designer was able to let free with joyous colours – but also try the silhouette-conscious black.
It was not that Molly had suddenly grown up and turned serious. She just made a subtle – and smart – move from fantasy to reality, where raiding the kitchen when the crisps have gone is part of partying.
Halpern: Still sequin crazy
Michael Halpern’s disco bomb sequinned dresses arrived on the scene two years ago when the American fashion student from Central Saint Martins seemed like an antidote to bad news.
Now that fake news is the big topic, the Halpern show had not changed one sparkle from his vision of how to dress – but not necessarily out-of-hours. Trousers with eye-popping geometric patterns, over-the-knee (and often over-the-top) boots and mini skirts might pass as daywear – especially as the high street shops have picked up on the disco glam daytime look.
Halpern has two strengths: a vivid joy in colour, and skill with body-conscious cutting. But after last season’s show in the plush velvet of a London theatre, an abandoned, freezing cold venue sent out a chill of reality. Is there life outside a capsule of twinkling sequins? Can there be more in the mix? That is what the next Halpern show needs to explore.
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