Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad‘s fall 2021 couture collection is an expression of unapologetic splendor. After year of lockdowns, staying indoors, and the absence of social events, the collection of evening gowns is a heartfelt tribute to cities and cultures of bravery.
Here, five things you must know about Zuhair Murad’s fall 2021 couture collection.
The collection is an ode to the designer and his hometown’s resilience
Murad’s atelier, an archive worth 20 years of work, was shattered in the August 4 Beirut port explosion last year amid the pandemic weighing down the fashion industry. The collection pays a tribute to the perseverance entrenched in his country’s culture. Working on his couture line made Murad feel happy and alive, despite the hurdles 2020 brought.
The collection’s muse is the city of Venice
Murad looked to the Serenissima, another city of resilience that has suffered invasions and diseases but has re-emerged every time. From “fourreau” capes borrowing from Italian artist Vittore Carpaccio’s paintings to scoop necks and puffed cap sleeves inspired by the Venetian Carnival, the collection is wrapped in historical references of the City of Doges. The embroidery takes from stained glass windows and Murano chandeliers in Venetian architecture.
The collection combines gigantic volume with thin silhouettes
The gowns’ silver and gold crystal fringe, along with draped ballooning taffeta capes, juxtapose enormous proportions and slender silhouettes.
The collection’s color palette draws from tones of precious jewels
Pieces further down the line had a palette of deep black offset with tones of emerald, ruby, and sapphire, and winding embroidered numbers shimmering in diamonds.
The collection revisits Renaissance outfits
The combinations of crystal garlands, long dresses of patrician hostesses, and oriental princess kaftans represent Renaissance-inspired chiffon, taffeta, faille and metallic organza outfits. However, silver lurex and shoulders and curves revealed through slits and asymmetries bring a modern note.