One of the most exciting things about a fashion show is the uncertain feeling of not knowing what to expect. With their creative genius, and through the power of clothes, designers are able to make us dream, smile, or even cry with the poetic magnetism of a magical look. Of course, fashion is also cyclic, so here and there, references from the past return to the runways of different brands. In a young, growing market such as Dubai, the power of true creativity, alongside savvy business skills and impeccable production, are essential for the rise of a brand regionally, and hopefully internationally. After all, that’s what Dubai is all about.
Aishwarya Rai Bachchan wears Michael Cinco at the 70th Cannes Film Festival. Photo: Rex
As it was proved last night, Michael Cinco, a Filipino designer who launched his brand in the UAE in 2003, seems to master two of the latest requisites. Being a red carpet favorite, his opulent looks are seen all over the world, worn by stars such as Christina Aguilera and Lady Gaga. He also seems to understand the importance of producing garments that look expensive, with his lavish creations taking hours and hours to conclude. As previously reported by Vogue Arabia, Mr Cinco’s Cannes Film Festival dress for Indian star Aishwarya Rai was a true show stopper. Its skirt featured 100 meters of tulle and it required 48 hours to sculpt, with four tailors and 30 beaders working on the embellishment. Ten petites mains required 120 hours to finalize the embroidery.
All of the above was seen last night, with beaded dresses paired with dramatic capes taking the runway while an opera singer performed Puccini’s O Mio Babbino Caro.
What seems to have been missing from Mr Cinco’s garden extravaganza – with models also featuring feathered dresses and creations with full tulip skirts in flower colors- was that essential quality of fashion that makes fashion, fashion. Holding on to a stagnated idea of what glamour should look like in 2020, Mr Cinco’s collection didn’t capture the l’air du temps of the present day. But that’s just a matter of taste, as any creative has the option to stick to his DNA, and ultimately what his clientele is looking for. What was disappointing was the similarity of some of the looks and dresses that have been recently seen on the world’s biggest stars.
The most blatant examples: with dramatic tears of fabric and voluminous shoulders, two dresses – in tangerine and blue – were dangerously resembling the famous pink Ashi Studio dress worn by Beyoncé. The same dress by the Saudi couturier was also one of the most exciting looks from the Cannes Film Festival, when worn by Indian star Deepika Padukone. Before, the same shape in white was worn by Cardi B in the 2018 Grammy Awards. For someone part of the red carpet circuit, it is disconcerting how Mr Cinco didn’t have a flash of, “Where did I see this before?” during his creative process. Even if, in the past, he could have done something with a similar flair, it doesn’t seem wise to have his style so associated to a silhouette so linked to one his regional peers.
The men’s collection also suffered from the same issue. Buff, athletic models walked down the runway with regal looks of military inspiration, bejeweled by crystals. They also wore capes and crowns that made it all seem again dangerously inspired, this time by Dolce & Gabbana. And we can argue that Dolce & Gabbana didn’t invent crowns and capes, but the styling and combination of all the elements, and also the choice of fabrics, looked too close to the latest collections of the Italian duo, both in their ready-to-wear and Alta Sartoria presentations.
It is unfortunate that all the hard work that Mr Cinco and his team put in this collection – and it was obvious that there was an enormous effort in producing all these intricate looks – ended up overshadowed by the stylistic similarities to the mentioned references. We will hold on to all his past achievements and perseverance, which allowed him to successfully take his brand to a world stage, hoping that next season he will offer us more of his own DNA.
