The ambitious restoration of the Grand Palais in Paris has seen Chanel play a pivotal role. Ahead of the maison’s SS25 show at the historic venue, Vogue Arabia lifts the curtain to reveal what this creative partnership has forged
The World Fair was held at the venue in 1900. Photo: Getty
The story of one of the world’s most beautiful and iconic historic monuments, the Grand Palais, is a tale of innovative creation, ambitious restoration, and commitment. Marked by the dedication of innumerable teams who worked against the clock to partially reopen the site in time for the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games, its latest chapter is momentous. Add to that the imminent return of Chanel’s ready-to-wear show to the space on October 1, and it’s clear that the glory of this landmark lives on. But to understand the future of this place, one must consider its rich past.
In 1894 there was a project to create an avenue to link the Champs- Elysées and the Esplanade des Invalides, building a connection between the two over the Seine. The result was a bridge now known as the famed Pont Alexandre III. This undertaking was elevated by plans to erect two palaces facing each other, the Grand and Petit Palais. In the end, this multipronged endeavor required the participation of four architects. Construction began in 1897 with just three short years to complete everything for the opening of the Universal Exhibition of 1900. Approximately 1 500 workers were employed to build the edifice, alongside 40 artists producing facade statues, decorative mosaics, and polychrome decoration.
The Chanel Haute Couture FW17/18 show was held at the Grand Palais. Photo: Getty
The Grand Palais was a triumphant success of Baroque, classic, and art nouveau styles and a completely modern take on an event space in the center of Paris. The nave – the central part of the structure – was classified a historic monument in 1975 followed by the listing of the entire building in 2000. The numbers one can rattle off about the site across decades are impressive: the space hosts over 40 events per year and approximately two million visitors, with an overall surface of 72 000 square meters. The nave called for 6 000 tons of steel, which is more than what was used for the Eiffel Tower, and a floor area of 13,500 square meters. The building also used 200 000 tons of stone. Beneath the largest glass dome in Europe, there have been countless exhibitions organized: from homages to Anselm Kiefer and Richard Serra to hosting international art and automobile fairs and equestrian events. There has even been a winter wonderland ice skating rink during the holidays.
In 1993, the remarkable building had to close for an extended period due to security reasons. As time went by, there were restorations that needed to be tended to, and areas that were closed as others reopened. Enter: Karl Lagerfeld who, in 2005, initiated the beginning of a longstanding dialogue between the Grand Palais and Chanel to breathe new life into the building. Offering more insight into the significance of this relationship following the building’s latest renovation, the luxury maison’s president of fashion, Bruno Pavlovsky, tells Vogue Arabia, “It all started in 2005 with the first part of their restoration. The Grand Palais was old and it was not meant to last. So, in 2005, Karl re-edited a book about the Grand Palais at the beginning of the century with all the big exhibitions and everything they put in it.” He continues, “It all started with Karl Lagerfeld, who remembered the big nave with the cars, trains, planes, everything one can imagine. And for the first time, we had the opportunity to present a fashion show in this space. And after, the story started.”
Facade of the Grand Palais
As the relationship evolved, the venue quickly proved to be the perfect backdrop for several of Chanel’s coveted collections. “It is a magical place, in the center of Paris, with this large glass roof. There are no problems like rain and one can use it as is, or one could imagine the most amazing decors,” Pavlovsky says. And imagine they did. From recreating a French country house, the Villa Chanel, to building a space station with a rocket that actually took off, nothing was off limits in terms of fueling the limitless creativity of Lagerfeld. One season the landmark was transformed into a seaside location with huts and sand. Another, it became a show-stopping ship called La Pausa. Pavlovsky says, “With Karl Lagerfeld, the place inspired him, fed his ideas. The big decors started with the Grand Palais because it was possible.”
A space station with a rocket was built for the FW17/18 RTW show
For the Chanel Cruise 2018/19 collection show, the landmark was transformed via a show-stopping ship called La Pausa. Photo: Getty
The Chanel SS21 RTW collection show at the venue
More recently, Chanel reinforced its longstanding partnership with the Grand Palais by becoming the exclusive and historic sponsor of the renovation project that began at the end of 2020, leading up to a partial reopening this year. The maison then announced an extension of its support over the next five years, amounting to an additional financial contribution of 30 million euros. Pavlovsky explains of the agreement, “We have an exceptional moment during the fashion shows, but also, this is a major cultural space in Paris. In April, we visited the site and it was a real construction site.” That it was ready in time to welcome the world to view fencing and taekwondo matches at the Summer Olympics, he says, was “a miracle.” This required no less than 50 different companies, 200 subcontractors, and large teams of workmen and craftsmen who were brought on board. The scope of the mission was to unify the galleries and the nave and rehabilitate the balconies and cantilevered concrete walkways. Everything had to be done with state- of-the-art precision and oversight, while still respecting and preserving period details such as the bronze ornaments on the grand main staircase.
A view of the main staircase at the Grand Palais
Didier Fusillier, president of the Réunion des musées nationaux Grand Palais
According to Didier Fusillier, president of the Réunion des musées nationaux-Grand Palais, or Rmn-GP for short, “For us, holding the Olympic and the Paralympic Games in the Grand Palais was a real, almost Olympian, challenge. In October 2023, we decided to step up the pace in order to keep to the schedule. We had all the different trades working together, at the same time. It was impressive to see: While some were demolishing the walls, others, a few meters away, were meticulously restoring the mosaics.” With regards to the ongoing support of Chanel, Fusillier says, “We have enjoyed a close partnership since 2005. The space has been transformed into a playground for the fashion house’s creativity, featuring some of the most captivating and imaginative set designs. This collaboration was significantly strengthened in 2018 when Chanel pledged 25 million euros to the Grand Palais restoration project – an unprecedented sponsorship for a public institution in France, aside from Notre-Dame. Today they continue to support the Grand Palais with an additional 30 million euros for the artistic program. Thanks to this support, we have more resources to develop an innovative offer that embraces the fine arts, contemporary art, celebration, and live performance.”
Moving forward, the next phase of the project is, in the words of Fusillier, “both delicate and essential.” Tomorrow’s Chanel SS25 show will kick off the use of the space this season, followed by Art Basel, Paris Photo, and the Fine Arts Paris & La Biennale (FAB Paris). There will also be exhibitions in the completed galleries, with all these activities coexisting alongside the remaining restoration work that will continue until June 2025, when the complete renovation will be unveiled.
Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion
In recognition of Chanel’s efforts to support the evolving structure and purpose of the Grand Palais, one of the entrances to the nave has been named for Gabrielle Chanel. Fusillier elaborates on this decision, saying, “This is in homage to the founder of the fashion house and her commitment to the cultural and artistic influence of Paris and its institutions. It is also a wink to everything that unites our two houses: The creativity and elegance that define Chanel are also values dear to the Grand Palais. The Grand Palais is a dream machine, a showcase for the arts, crafts, and contemporary creation, which Chanel also represents.” He adds that a curtain made by the Studio MTX – at once a design studio and production workshop under Chanel’s Maisons d’Art umbrella – will be embroidered in their 19M atelier, which Fusillier describes as “the fashion house’s temple of craftsmanship.” The piece is set to be installed in the Grand Palais.
The story of the many lives of the Grand Palais is the stuff of dreams, and the high-fashion touch only adds to the glamour. Pavlovsky says, “We are proud to have been a part of the Grand Palais during the Olympics. I think people will understand what is possible. The event following is the Chanel ready-to-wear collection at the beginning of October. This is the most beautiful building in Paris. We want to be up to it!” As well said as it is certain, neither Chanel nor the Grand Palais ever disappoints.
