Pieter Mulier unveiled his second collection for the storied house of Azzedine Alaïa off-schedule on Sunday, earning a standing ovation for his work. With the aim of keeping the signature house codes intact while adding a bit of himself to the collection, Mulier’s designs struck a balance between appealing to both, the younger and highbrow generations.
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First seen in the creative director’s debut, mermaid and peplum hemlines were further exaggerated while the bell-bottoms were derived from the late Tunisian couturier’s Spanish skirts from 1982 and 1988. The collection was also big on tailoring which was important to Mulier, as seen in the slightly oversized coats and tuxedos in stark contrast to the figure-hugging catsuits and bodycon dresses that are making a comeback. The knitted dresses with face coverings were special in that they were a result of the fashion house’s collaboration with the Picasso Foundation and Mulier’s way of paying tribute to Alaïa who was close to the Spanish artist’s family. Each one mirrored the bottle-like ceramics Picasso created in the 1940s, in embroidery that took over the entire dress.
Bold, art-like, and pragmatic, the collection lends a hand to Mulier’s woman, which is one who dares to accept it. “You can put a skirt on it and style it down,” shared Mulier with Vogue. “We showed it on these beautiful women… they can. And if you want, you can.” Take a look at the best pieces from the Alaïa Fall 2022 collection below.