Naomi Campbell in Alexander McQueen and Kendall Jenner Schiaparelli
As Paris Fashion Week draws closer to its end, it has left us with a bold and often maximalist sense of joie de vivre. From the dramatic surrealism of Schiaparelli and the surprising dark romance of Rick Owens to the ephemeral, yet timeless meadow of Hermés, Spring/Summer 2024 has once again proven why Paris remains the fashion capital of the world.
Below, discover all the highlights from Day 4 to Day 7 of Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024.
Day 4
Rick Owens
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At the Palais Tokyo in Paris, Rick Owens presented an extravaganza laden with his infatuation for silhouettes and texture. Submerged in pink and then yellow mist, the models emerged as a dystopian mirage, almost otherworldly in nature. Many of them remained hidden behind veils while all of them carried that signature darkness associated with the brand. However, amid the doom, one could evidently find a vision of love and joy. Shades of red, burgundy, and pink appeared now and then while sharp silhouettes such as the easily identifiable pointed shoulders were juxtaposed by warmth and rounder notes.
Schiaparelli
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No one has ever done surrealism quite like Elsa Schiaparelli but Daniel Roseberry has certainly built upon that legacy, infusing his own extraordinary touch with the house’s heritage. While the silhouettes, colors, and fabrics at the show remained elegant and timeless giant gold accessories and motifs such as the lobster or crab provided just enough drama to uplift the mood. Keeping in line with surrealist sensibilities everyday objects metamorphosized into couture icons – a box of cigarettes, the human torso, and even ears. The show came to an end with Kendall Jenner appearing radiant in a sequined red dress, a moment that gained just as much attention as her sister, Kylie Jenner, attending the show in a figure-hugging Schiaparelli gown.
Day 5
Loewe
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In the outskirts of Paris, in the Château de Vincennes, Jonathan Anderson once again made his guests fall in love with Loewe. However, this time around, his whimsical disposition merged with a preference for wearability and comfort. The internet has already found its favorite piece in the blanket cape knits with the high-fashion side of X (formerly Twitter) overflowing with images of the cozy knitwear. Gold metal accents seemed to tie the collection together, appearing everywhere, from buttons to knitting needles looped through belt holes of shapeless shorts. Elsewhere, Anderson made the case for ending the reign of the low-waisted bottoms with ultra-high-waisted slacks while Taylor Russell won social media with a sculpted metal jacket from Loewe menswear.
Nina Ricci
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While quite luxury and stealth wealth might continue to fascinate many, the world of high fashion is certainly moving on. At Nina Ricci, Harris Reed continued to build upon the maximalist moment at Paris Fashion Week with a focus on dramatic volume, curves, and most importantly, drama. The collection was anything but minimal, as models painted a grandeur image reminiscent of the 17th-century Baroque era. Giant bows, billowing skirts, and voluminous skirts carried one simple message – it is all about the drama this season.
Victoria Beckham
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With Kim Kardashian making a late appearance before settling down next to David Beckham, and names such as Pamela Anderson and Anna Wintour in attendance, the Victoria Beckham show was notable, to say the least. However, it would be amiss to give all the credit to the FROW as Beckham presented a beautiful collection inspired by ballet dance. Held in an 18th-century Haussmanian mansion that once belonged to the late Karl Lagerfeld, the show was immensely captivating. The collection exuded a certain elegance one can only associate with dancers as expert tailoring, soft draping, tulle gowns, and breezy summer dresses came down the runway.
Day 6
Reemami
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As the UAE-based Reemami made its Paris Fashion Week debut Reema Al Banna provided a testament to the fact that fashion from the Middle East can mesmerise even at the most prestigious of affairs. Following in the footsteps of famed couturiers such as Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad, Al Banna made the case for Arab excellence. Inspired by the gilded Court of Versailles, the collection featured captivating shapes and silhouettes, such as through jutted hips and wide shoulders. Whimsical prints provided a playful note through optical illusions while other pieces accentuated the wearer with pinstripes.
Hermés
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For Spring/Summer 2024, Hermés transported guests to an idyllic meadow. The chirping of wild birds and melodic music accompanied a collection that was more than representative of the house and its historic savoir-faire. While others might be taking the route to maximalism, for Hermés, it is all about keeping it simple while ensuring its exceptional craftsmanship. Precise silhouettes appeared in fall tones such as poppy red, burgundy, black, and ivory. With every look, the house evoked a sense of relaxed professionalism highlighted by cuffs rolled up on blazers and loose jackets or by sports bras and waistcoats. At Hermés, it is all about work, movement, play, and love.
Elie Saab
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The latest ready-to-wear collection from Elie Saab seemed to celebrate feminity in all of its diversity as the Lebanese couturier found himself thinking of moonlit gatherings and the blissful glimmers that come with them. The guiding ethos was certainly all about breezy summer days as flowing silhouettes appeared on the runway, adorned by everything from a spray of black polka dots, scalloped hemlines, and white English lace to high jewels. The color palette seemed to shift throughout the show featuring black against a white sky, bubble gum pink, aquamarine and so much more that seemed to symbolise the polarity of the feminine existence.
Alexander McQueen
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This year, Paris Fashion Week became witness to a historic show as Sarah Burton waved goodbye to Alexander Mcqueen after 26 years, including 13 years as creative director. Having joined straight out of Central Saint Martins in 1997 Burton and her vision are woven into the brand’s identity, a fact that this last show celebrated to the fullest. Dedicating the collection to Lee McQueen and her team, Burton claimed that it was “inspired by the female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth, the blood red rose, and Magdalena Abakanowicz,” a pioneering artist whose work was featured in the show. Each piece seemed to highlight the contributions Burton has made to Alexander McQueen, strong tailoring, leather sculptural bodices, and feminine yet strong looks inspired by flowers. A highlight of the day was Naomi Campbell showcasing her age-defying beauty and supermodel aura in a metallic ensemble.
Day 7
Balenciaga
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For Spring/Summer 2024, Balenciaga presented a star-studded affair as creative director Demna decided to get a little more personal. Unexpected guests appeared on the runway as models were accompanied by celebrities and close collaborators of the designer such as journalist Diane Pernet, The Cut’s fashion critic Cathy Horyn, and Balenciaga’s head of PR, Robin Meason. The show was opened by Demna’s mother cementing the personal inspiration right from the beginning. In classic Balenciaga style, black dominated the theatric runway which featured exaggerated shoulders, baggy silhouettes, and upside-down sunglasses. This was Balenciaga at its finest with clothes seeming unfinished and finalised at the same time as each look carried with it an air of impossibility.
Valentino
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The École des Beaux-Arts, the school where Valentino Garavani studied fashion, saw Valentino celebrate the feminine form in all its multitudinous glory with a particular focus on the skin. As FKA Twigs took to the stage and dancers accompanied her with hypnotic movements, the stage was set for a collection that is all about the body and its surreal beauty. Pierpaolo Piccioli opted to highlight the skin as the chosen fabric of the L’École collection, in an ode to every woman and her form. Abbreviated skirts and daring cuts provided sensual windows to the body while a juxtaposition emerged between elaboration and simplicity along with 3D sculpted pieces comprising of fruits and flora.
Casablanca
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As French Moroccan designer Charaf Tajer presented Casablanca’s debut appearance in the womenswear schedule he drew inspiration from Africa and surprisingly, motorsports. The collection, which was titled Day of Victory, was shown on the 63rd anniversary of Nigeria’s independence and is a nod toward the influence of Nigerian culture on Tajer’s creations. Featuring bright hues and patterns reminiscent of vibrant summers in Lagos, the runway stood as a testament to the fact that Casablanca can most certainly excel in womenswear, just as it has nailed its menswear collections over the years.
Read Next: All the Arab Designers at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024
