We’ve kept you up to speed with the happenings of New York, London, and Milan, and now it’s time to turn our gaze to the City of Lights. Read on for the key highlights from Paris Fashion Week Fall 2018.
Virgil Abloh presented the Fall 2018 collection for Off-White, “West Village”, in Paris on Thursday evening. Guests, which included Luka Sabbat and Justine Skye, had to fight their way through a riot started by mobs of Abloh fans that gathered on a tight block off Rue Cambon. A member of the Karla Otto team attributed the “moshpit” to the release of the new Virgil Abloh x Air Jordan sneaker release at nearby store. Once the riot died down, guests took to their seats to witness Bella Hadid open the show wearing a printed, corset body suit over a white dress shirt. According to the brand’s Instagram, the collection was for the woman who. “Lives in West Village and soul cycles on weekdays & rides horses in Westchester weekend.” The offering included equestrian references (Abloh bought a horse recently) sprinkled with tight jumpsuits, tailored jackets, and dresses that are sure to capture the attention of more than just Abloh loyalists.
For Fall 2018, Balmain’s young creative director Olivier Rousteing took an unconventional new direction, choosing a futuristic theme. On the runway, which took place in Paris City Hall’s ballroom, this translated into holographic PVC, metallic body-hugging dresses, and light-reflecting sequined pieces that looked like a real life KiraKira app. However, not everything was holographic plissé and PVC. A handful of the #BalmainArmy took to the runway wearing ripped jeans, denim trenches, and perfect-cut jackets.
At Elie Saab Fall 2018, models stomped down the runway to the soundtrack of Nirvana’s “Smell’s Like Teen Spirit” and “Creep” by Radiohead wearing Victorian-inspired black gowns with high collars, delicate neck scarves, and black knee-high boots. Full sequined gowns shimmered in the dark while floral prints added a romantic touch. The collection, dubbed “Bouquets d’Hiver” (winter bouquets) was punctuated with both daywear and eveningwear in the form of cropped jackets, and billowing off-the-shoulder gowns (sometimes accessorized with black lace headpieces) suited for weddings across the region.
For the second season, Anthony Vacarello presented the Saint Laurent collection opposite the Eiffel Tower, only this time, the runway show was set indoor in a temporary indoor space illuminated with hundreds of round lights. Models emerged on the catwalk wearing black leather shorts, big shouldered mini dresses, and tailored jackets, blouses, and trousers that will undoubtedly costume millennials the world over. In between the tassel trimmed sequined jacket and a crystal-embroidered, Prince of Wales smoking jacket, the menswear collection featured. The designer opted to present it alongside the womenswear. Following Fall 2017’s glittering disco boot and Spring 2018’s ostrich-trimmed footwear, this season’s new it shoe is a chunky, black ankle boot with a wide buckle that screams “wear me now, Rihanna.”
Since her appointment as the first female artistic director at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri has utilized the runway to empower women, and the brand’s Fall 2018 collection was no different. This season’s show was inspired by the 50th anniversary of the Paris student protests of 1968. This was instantly apparent throughout the set, which featured printed out magazine covers and protest headlines of the late 1960s as wallpaper. The elaborate images culminated into slogans such as, “C’est non non non et non!” and graphic peace signs on knit sweaters, and major patchwork motifs on expertly tailored jackets, skirts, dresses, and even boots. Cue: flower motifs, sheer evening wear, and colorful glasses. Each look was topped off with a black, baker boy cap.