The Row
This AW 2023, The Row did not disappoint from its usual less-is-more status quo. Although it might not be making all the noise that fashion week promises, its silent take on luxurious and wearable fashion is its prime goal. Think oversized coats, striking black and white silhouettes, tonal scarf wrapping and head-to-toe cashmere. This collection took an extreme to cover-ups, with one exception of a single black ruffled evening dress. Sophistication is at the core of everything the New York-based brand stands for, and it was a clear win this season for the utilitarian dresser.
Paco Rabanne
This was a unique show as it marked the first since the late Paco Rabanne himself passed at the age of 88 years old. Julien Dossena, the Creative Director played homage to the shiny silver cocktail dresses and hard-core party wardrobe looks we have come to know and love from the designers shows. Dossena left a seat empty in the audience that read “Monsieur Rabanne” for his “utopic creative approach” and “radical expression” This show was a true homage to the designer himself and featured five of his original designs at the end. With some pops of color, a hint of surrealism from the printed Dali dresses to a soirée of original designs, Monsieur Rabanne’s memory was left imprinted on the audience this season.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten showcased their fall collection, and it was an ode to “make do and mend.” A solo drummer was met on a vast stage which emphasized the negative space in the room, a mirror reflected the musician, a thoughtful narrative around the solitude of being an artist. The obvious nod to 90’s grunge perpetuated by floral prints, velvet jackets, oversized coats, undone blazers, and bold gold leather. It was a meeting of practicality and elegance for the woman who thrives in wearable fashion. Denim was showcased as a part of the collection, giving the entire runway a real-world appeal. Structured and belted coats were a win for this collection, presenting the true statement pieces this fall will be your outerwear.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing stole the show at Day 2 of PFW, playing the beautiful Frank Sinatra’s “My Way”. The lyrics “When there was doubt/ I ate it up and spit it out/ I faced it all and I stood tall” to Rousteing, were “about following the voice inside your heart and your soul.” The show certainly looked different from anything we have previously seen from the Creative Director, and heavily leaned on classicism, creating a number of modernized timeless looks. His ultimate goal this season was to focus on quality and that message was not lost – sharp cuts, monochromatic looks, supersized bags, shoulders bare and evening dresses that will hang in your wardrobe for a lifetime was the key. All black everything eveningwear dominated the runway as a nod to the 40’s and 50’s in a modernized take, using neoprene and PVC to construct draped looks accompanied with bows and ties. The show was not shy of details, chic and elevated for the woman that dares to wear Balmain. It was clear this season that Rousteing did things his way.