Paris Haute Couture Week Spring/Summer 2023 is in full swing with plenty of glamour and extravagance as top fashion houses continue to showcase their latest collections of the most anticipated season. From the dreamy and opulent to the most quirky and unanticipated silhouettes, day three of the week in the City of Light did not disappoint, and neither did the Arab designers who left their usual mark on the fashion calendar. Here are some highlights of the third day of Spring/Summer 2023 haute couture displays.
Under the ceilings of the majestic Le Carreau Du Temple, Elie Saab presented his Spring/Summer 2023 couture collection that seemed to inhabit a place of fantasy, where opulence and grandeur reigned supreme. The Lebanese designer said backstage before yesterday’s show: “I wanted to convey a regal feel, a brilliance; I love the idea of majesté,” and that was subtly reflected in each creation. As large bows flounced on models’ necks, the looks incarnated facets of Thailand’s mysterious beauty. Its architecture was translated through coiled embroidery, and rather than jewels, Saab poured his models into gowns that appeared like glistening stones.
Another Arab designer stole the show at the Palais Tokyo during Paris Couture Week yesterday. Saudi couturier Ashi, who presented his third live show in the French capital, transformed the space into a desert setting as his models arrived in dresses that appeared to emerge from the sea. The collection of dresses and ensembles represents a return to roots for the brand, seizing the moment to delve deep into its maximal impulses while maintaining the pure lines ofits amplified silhouettes. The textures compose shredded organzas and wisps of frayed mohair, volcanic crystal appliqués and crushed stones with dangling pearl charms in harmonious arrangements. Figure-hugging outlines act as heroic body-armor and over-blown shapes mimic natural rock formations, juxtaposing one another with masterful balance.
Viktor & Rolf
Known for its provocative approach to haute couture, Viktor & Rolf brought some humor to fashion week and turned fashion upside down as it explored the disconnect between image and reality in its Spring/summer 2023 couture collection. Showing punk hair, dolled-up models walked the ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel in tulle princess gowns and multi-tiered dresses that were flipped in every direction. Some of the dresses were worn horizontally or on a diagonal, revealing corset undergarments in neutral tones, while one model walked with a fully upside-down dress.
Couture Week isn’t complete without the touches of the Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad whose collection spoke of Belle Epoque inspirations culled mainly from the glory days of the French Riviera, circa 1970. Murad channeled the “romantic sexy” gaiety of light materials such as tulle, chiffon, and draped jersey, with extras like beaded fringe and pearl-studded interpretations of macramé. The color palette was as vibrant as a sunny day in the Côte d’Azur including citrus colors, sunset oranges, fiery magenta, Mediterranean blue, lime green, and hot yellow.
With Valentino concluding yesterday’s shows, it was the perfect ending of the day where the energy, the sound, and the feel of couture were everywhere.