Riccardo Tisci presented his debut collection for Burberry in London last night. The 134-look runway show merged Tisci’s own obsessions and aesthetics with the Burberry brand’s 162-year heritage in a muted palette of beige, black, red, coral, and mint. Here, 10 things you need to know about Tisci’s debut.
How else to open a Burberry runway show than with a take on the brand’s signature trenchcoat? Worn by German model Sophia Roetz, Tisci’s version came with a tightly cinched elastic belt in chocolate brown and was worn over a monogram blue shirtdress.
The Beige Brigade
Tisci loves a nude color—it’s a through line of his work dating back to his namesake ready-to-wear collection. The first 44 looks of his Burberry debut were mostly rendered in shades of beige, caramel, blush, camel, chocolate brown, and black, giving women lots of neutral options this spring. Color came in, slowly and deliberately later in the show, with orange, cherry red, and a pale mint rounding out the collection.
Mid-show, a parade of male models in various styles of suiting came out. This first menswear section was rife with options for daring officegoers, with pinstripe suits, shirting with built-in tie fasteners, and dapper outerwear. Later on, there was a more street-inspired section, full of the graphics and loose silhouettes familiar to longtime Tisci fans.
The Utilitarian Accessories
Chances are, these are the first umbrella holsters to ever grace a runway. Half quiver, half bike chain, Tisci’s umbrella carriers take a necessary object and give it a design-world twist. But that’s not all: Tisci also served leather passport cases looped around models’ necks like lanyards, sideways backpacks worn as belt bags, reflective tape-striped sneakers, and oversize rain ponchos, insuring that there’s something Burberry-made to get you through any occasion or weather condition.
The Counter Culture
If the show started ladylike, it didn’t stay that way for long. Somewhere in the middle, the tenor changed with a lineup of looks that seemed to nod to Tisci’s time studying at Central Saint Martins in the ’90s. Ushered in by a model with a peroxide pixie cut and lug-soled Mary Janes, this stretch of the show had a decidedly more youthful slant, all mixed-print dresses, lacy slips, and graphic tees.
Robert Del Naja, of the British supergroup Massive Attack, designed the soundtrack for today’s runway show. Tisci named Del Naja as a major influence during his student career in London, writing on Instagram, “Massive Attack have had a huge influence on me my whole life – I discovered them when I was a student here in London and when I started planning my first Burberry show, I knew we had to work with them to bring back the sounds I was so inspired by.”
Technically, the Burberry show took place in a post office warehouse in London, but within the expansive space, the brand erected the poshest set possible. Some guests had beige armchairs, and others sat on cushioned benches; all were surrounded by mirrored, movable walls. When the lights dimmed, the walls moved to reveal the runway.
Tisci’s favorite muses walked in his debut. The list includes Cat McNeil, Kendall Jenner, Riley Montana, Lily Donaldson, Stella Tennant, Freja Beha Erichsen, Jourdan Dunn, Natalia Vodianova, and Irina Shayk. Mariacarla Boscono, who was instrumental in promoting Tisci way back at the turn of the millennium, even dyed her hair red to walk today’s runway.
Animal Prints of All Stripes
Burberry recently swore off fur, perhaps prompting the deer-print top with the slogan Why Did They Kill Bambi? (Long-term Tisci followers will know that Bambi has been much-referenced in his collections over the years.) There was also plenty of leopard, Dalmatian dots, and a mock astrakhan print in the lineup.
Tisci’s eveningwear capsule was small but very sweet. The all-black selection of dresses, bustiers, and trousers were lined with golden fringe or black chain mail, providing something for Burberry shoppers young and old to wear after dark.
This article first appeared on Vogue.com