In an industry constantly searching for newness, Marc Jacobs is looking to the past for his Resort 2019 collection. The designer has reproduced his highly publicized Spring 1993 grunge collection for Perry Ellis – right down to the accessories. Yes, those knitted beanies are making a comeback.
The now-seminal collection, which debuted during New York Fashion Week in September 1992, polarized fashion press. After the glamour-fueled fashion of the ’80s, grunge paled in comparison, and Jacobs was subsequently fired from Perry Ellis shortly afterwards.
But the flannel shirts, silk slips, striped suits and combat boots, which were modeled by Christy Turlington, Kate Moss, and Naomi Campbell on the runway, paved Jacobs’s path to international recognition – and, ultimately, LVMH hiring him to revitalize Louis Vuitton in 1997.
Twenty-five years later, when tapping into the streetwear zeitgeist has become the norm, Jacobs has remade 26 looks from the original Perry Ellis line. His team trawled through vintage sources to find original pieces, consulted Perry Ellis for historical assets and returned to the mills that produced the prints. Redux, as Grunge 2.0 will be dubbed, will drop this month.
Jacobs is keen that the fashion flashback should not be viewed as an anniversary of the Teen Spirit mood, and that the decision to reissue a capsule was born from questioning the current fashion system. “In the big picture, a redux of grunge evokes going forward while being a little bit more instinctive and a little bit more liberal and not as rigid with the way we do things,” Jacobs told WWD of previously feeling boxed in by the industry’s expectations of his brand. Without non-conformists like Jacobs to push the envelope, what, after all, is fashion?
This article first appeared on Vogue.co.uk