July 4 is normally a day reserved for American celebrations of independence. But in Paris, it’s Couture Week, as much a part of France’s national identity as the official public holiday in the States. With that in mind, Brigitte Macron, the new First Lady, has been out and about attending shows. Meanwhile at Chanel, the French behemoth seized the opportunity to do some myth-making, transforming the Grand Palais into the archetypal Parisian park scene – complete with the skyline’s most famous tower. Here’s eight things to note from Chanel’s Fall 2017 Couture show.
The Eiffel Tower Has a New Home
Karl transplanted the Eiffel Tower, a monolith of the Parisian landscape, to the Grand Palais in typically bombastic fashion and rebranded it #ChanelTower. Guests were seated on a gravel runway, perched on chic iterations of the folding dark green metal chairs that litter the Jardin du Luxembourg.
The Show Invitation Had Cubist Leanings
Karl Lagerfeld chose the 1926 oil painting of La Tour Eiffel by Robert Delaunay for the show invitation, deeming it “a symbol of avant-garde modernity”. Chanel’s website drew attention to Roland Barthes’ observation in “The Eiffel Tower And Other Mythologies”, that Maupassant often lunched in the Eiffel Tower restaurant, even though he didn’t think much of the food, because it was the only place in Paris where he didn’t have to see it. “Whatever the season, through mist and cloud, on overcast days or in sunshine, in rain – wherever you are, whatever the landscape of roofs, domes, or branches separating you from it, the Tower is there,” Barthes wrote.
French Model Camille Hurel Was First Out
The strong-browed Parisienne teenager slunk out in the number one slot on the catwalk. Having debuted on the Givenchy runway a couple of seasons ago, Hurel is now a firm favorite with French fashion houses and has already walked for Dior this Couture week. She closed the show in the bow-bedecked Bridal gown.
Every Model wore a Flat Hat and Large Pearl Earrings
Classic black gave way to chain-trimmed tweed, patent leather and jazzy sequin-embroidered styles, all worn with golf-ball-size pearl earrings.
Patent Boots Offset Traditional Tweeds
Shelve the suede: models wore knee-high and ankle-length patent boots in black, cream and beige, adding an edge to the fripperies of razor-sliced tulle, feathers and tweed. Patent always looks slicker.
The Return of The Twist
Classic twists ruled the runways, teased into delicate patisserie-style swirls by Sam McKnight and held in place with gallons of hairspray.
Karl Was Honored
The famed creative director, Karl Lagerfeld, was presented with a Grand Vermeil medal by the Mayor of Paris for his contribution to the fashion industry.
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