Expanding into a new territory is a daunting prospect for any designer, even for the maisons that are well established on home turf. At the dawn of her brand’s Middle Eastern debut, Molly Goddard speaks to the Vogue Arabia fashion desk to discuss frou-frou dresses galore, creating communities through a shared love of fashion, and the dreaded ‘inner critic’. Scroll down to meet Molly ahead of her Dubai launch.
It’s been a stellar year so far for the British-born designer and Central Saint Martins graduate, after signing off 2016 with the gong for Emerging Designer at the British Fashion Awards, her London Fashion Week Fall 2017 offering was her strongest to date. “I was most proud of this show because it had stepped up a level and ran quite smoothly,” Goddard told Vogue Arabia. “Everyone enjoyed it, including me!”
Molly Goddard takes a bow at the finale of her Resort 2018 runway show. Indigital
The winter runway show closed with a sherbert lemon tulle dress decorated with carefully-crafted, floral embroidery. It signalled a new-found confidence in her design signature. But it was the opening look–a blush pink dress with balloon sleeves and open-stitch ruches–that Goddard notes as being the breakthrough piece. “I tend to get this one thing that I need to make a few nights before the actual show,” Goddard added with hint of glee. “And I need the pressure to do it. That is when I am at my most creative. I just go for it.” Credit due to the designer for crafting an on-point look at the sewing machine hours before lights up. But Goddard does indeed excel when the clock is ticking. She agrees that pressure is the antidote to her inner critic affecting her work. “If I don’t have time to think on it too long, it just happens.”
Molly Goddard Spring 2017. Indigital
Goddard has just dialled down the tempo of her studio after curating and putting on a runway show at the V&A museum in London. The occasion? The designer took part in the series called ‘Fashion in Motion‘ where brands from all over the world presented live runway shows to an open-invite audience. “It’s really nice because anyone can go to the shows,” Goddard told Vogue Arabia. This marked the first show where she presented her collections to the public rather than a front row of pure press, buyers, stars, and editors. While hemlines and color contrast choices won’t have been dissected by this throng of onlookers, the process still provided pressure for Goddard. “I pulled all my line sheets and my sister Alice [a magazine stylist and muse for the brand] chopped them up and blended everything together. It’s a fashion show, a celebration of the things we have done and we wanted it to be about the making of fun clothes.”
Molly Goddard Resort 2018. Indigital
Goddard is celebrated amongst the London scene for her voluminous, unapologetic dresses that have featured in a series of neons, candy pastel hues, and carbon black tones across the seasons. With emerging markets to consider, the designer is starting to weave in commercial, entry-level designs–jersey and tulle dresses and embellished leggings–into her ready-to-wear lines to diversify her core looks. “In the first few seasons, it’s about making a statement,” added Goddard. “It’s a constant process.” When approaching a new market, Goddard states, “we do a couple of seasons in a shop and find out what works and what doesn’t. It’s a constant conversation with the clientele.” The designer is curious about what will gel when her collection lands into the Mall of the Emirates, housed in the highly-regarded concept store Boutique 1. The first drop will arrive in the next few days and brings Goddard’s rainbow of bold dresses to the heart of the Middle East. A vastly different climate to that of the UK indeed. “I like the variety of fabrics and how light textures can be layered” in the Gulf climate, she reflects. With her work mantra set to the “more is more” mode, we look forward to seeing the house of Molly Goddard bring a new dimension to the Emirati fashion landscape.
Molly Goddard will be available in Boutique 1 Dubai at the Mall of the Emirates from July 2017. Lead image: Molly Goddard Spring 2017. Indigital
