The Fall 2017 European men’s shows may have closed way back in February but the winter season is now upon and the trends and threads showcased are ready to come into play in wardrobes across the Middle East. While some menswear looks are primed for the dapper travelling Arab man, other key styles will prove to be elegant outfit combinations for the regions cooler sweep of wearther. Here Vogue.me’s Contributing Menswear Editor, Mo Anwar investigates.
Next year promises a season of lowering austerity and a cold front attuned to the all-pervading economic and social storm. One brand that always seems to have what it takes for classic status is Valentino.
Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli showcased oversized overcoats, Argyle printed sweaters, and loose-fit trousers. Legendary pieces in a gentleman’s wardrobe are brought to life by fashion houses such as Salvatore Ferragamo and Prada. The result speaks for itself: trusty knitwear, cashmere V-neck pullovers, and suave suits.
Meanwhile in Paris at the Grand Palais, Haider Ackermann presented his first collection for Berluti. A collection that could only be described as sartorial with a chic, romantic and bohemian twist. Exactly as we expect from the Colombian-born French designer. Presented in luxurious fabrics like velour, and in hues such as burgundy, emerald green, and night blue, Ackermann’s pieces were showstoppers, one by one.
One of Kenzo’s mantras for next year is “do it in color.” Not just any color, though: bright yellow puffer jackets for the boys, and shocking pink shearling coats for the girls.
At Lanvin, on the other hand, the sheer range of bright colorama seems to have left. “I really wanted the whole collection to be about cut, construction, and proportion,” Lucas Ossendrijver explained to US Vogue’s Luke Leitch.
Paul Smith’s tailored silhouette was rich, loose-fitted, and down to earth. College boys (clearly the inspiration behind the collection) were parading on the catwalk in paisley printed silk pyjamas and green check-printed suits, combined with cut-wide parkas.
Damir Doma, designer extraordinaire, has been meshing cultures for seasons. Famed for his ethnic crossovers (kaftans, kimonos, and tunics) his Fall 2017 collection was pitched in a way that one could only assume that Doma travelled around the world in 80 days.
Etro noted the revival of the bohemian gent, too, and enlivened the collection with floral prints and suede fabrics.
Balmain, founded in 1945 by French designer Pierre Balmain, has been bought last season by Mayhoola for Investments, the Qatari fund that also owns Valentino.
Olivier Rousteing electrified on the beats of The Show’s Not Over with a parade of glam rock disco looks. Riccardo Tisci started his show with a moment of silence for Vogue Italia’s late Editor-in-Chief, Franca Sozzani, who passed away last December. Tisci, who has been working for Givenchy since 2005 (and might leave to Versace next year, rumour has it) presented an urban-esque collection of oversized-buttoned duffel coats, three-piece suits, and oversized shirts in red and blue shades that were layered underneath deep-crew necked sweaters, making it look as if the models were wearing skirts.
“When I design, I always have a certain person in my mind. I never plan whether a piece will be an editorial or a commercial item,” Riccardo Tisci explained exclusively to Vogue Arabia. When asked what he expects from Vogue Arabia’s first issue, Tisci stated: “I expect a lot of love, women support, and glamour.”