Known for the timelessness, structure, and movement of her pieces, American jeweler Maria Tash is set to present her Fall/Winter 2020 collection this September. An innovative collection that intersects elements of luxury and comfort, each piece is a celebration of the universality of the house’s designs. Created for both men and women alike, the collection intends to evoke and inspire an air of individuality and uniqueness.
Comprising intricate pieces such as the Triple Silhouette Spike Diamond Eternity; an evolution of the iconic Maria Tash design in which the classic gold spikes have been converted to diamonds, the collection takes a minimalist approach to setting, and a maximalist approach to style.
Espousing modernity and precision, other additions to the collection include unique diamond shapes, unexpected placements, and innovative mechanisms; all of which allow the jewelry to sit closer to the skin while also creating a delicate ‘floating’ effect. The house’s new invisible solitaire for example, now comes in a triangular shape that is characterized by the sharp angles found in the spike collection. Alternatively, through structure and movement, new settings in the form of diamond drapes, diamond crescendos, and tassel bar styles allow diamonds to move with the wearer without compromising the orientation or integrity of its design.
Alongside the new collection which launches online worldwide on September 14, the jewelry house has also introduced two new piercings; the Tash Helix and the Tash Hidden Rook, which simulate inventive ‘floating’ effects on the ear. Concealing the entry point of the piercing and the wearable component of the jewelry, the piercings, having cleverly utilized the intricacy of ear-anatomy, exemplify Maria Tash’s constant quest to push the boundaries of design. In conjunction with the new placements, aficionados of the brand will soon be able to wear three new styles from the Fall/Winter collection; the 2mm Prong Set Diamond Drape Stud, Diamond Drape Chandelier Stud, and the Floating Diamond Charm Studs.
We caught up with the celebrity-loved jeweler to learn more about how the new collection and piercings came to be.
What inspired you to create the Triple Silhouette Spike and why did you choose to use diamonds?
I wanted to create a diamond version of a long spike as well as integrate the invisible setting into an iconic Maria Tash design. My goal was to create something that had not been seen before, and it was exciting to work with the cutters and push them to create really long single stone spikes. Then there was the challenge of working with the setters to create the most minimalist hold to these diamonds that was secure but barely noticeable so you can just appreciate the stones, their suspension, and recognize the overall shape and function of the iconic Maria Tash Triple Spike design.
What inspired the new piercings?
It is difficult to develop new piercing locations. I thought of under-utilized parts of the ear and then ruminated on what would be beautiful, comfortable, and mysterious emerging out of this underappreciated anatomy. I was inspired by recessed lighting in interior design, where light emerges from gaps between molding and the wall. I see the chain and diamonds akin to the light, and the molding analogous to structural ear flap tissue. My goal is for people to see the finished effect and think, ‘Wow. That’s beautiful and how does it work?’
What is your favorite piece from the collection?
That’s like asking if you have a favorite child. It’s difficult to choose just one!
My Floating Diamond Charms are a hybrid between a charm and a stud. I love movement and I love extremely minimalist stone settings. These studs have both of those features. I gave a lot of thought as to how the beautiful diamond shapes could be gently suspended in the air, held minimally, emerge from hidden parts of the ear if desired, and sit perfectly flush with the ear. Each spike mechanism holding these diamonds has a slightly different length which reflects the uniqueness of each stone depth, and the distance between the point and the top of the stone is precisely calculated and honored. The goal was that each stud would sit flat against the skin, never stick up, and just gently move on its own in harmony with the wearer.
The Diamond Crescendo and Tassel Bars are designs that have structure whose purpose is to support movement. The diamond and metal rods create the illusion that the ear needs columns or structures to stand up on its own. The metal granulated tassels move freely under cleverly hidden mechanisms beneath the rod. The diamond design has a soft invisible set and floating charms that guide the eye up the ear and soften the concept of needed structure.
What are some of the things you have to consider when designing a unisex, as opposed to a single-sex, jewelry collection?
I don’t design with gender in mind and my stores have never separated jewelry into male and female assortments. I think this stems from a background in the body jewelry world where men and women were equally interested, especially in the 1990s. I just think about what designs I would love to see come to life and are functional, comfortable, and beautiful. Each piece of jewelry is ultimately unique to the wearer. It’s not about masculinity or femininity, it’s about personal style and how one resonates with each piece. Regardless of gender, people are styling themselves with earrings in more unusual locations more than ever before.