Marc Jacobs last presented a collection in February 2020 – his fall/winter 2020 runway spectacular memorably featured Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber in Jackie O mode, as well as a cameo from Miley Cyrus. On Monday he came back with a bang, staging a physical show at the New York Public Library that was a colorful ode to the designer’s enduring passion for fashion and creativity. Below, five things to know about the show.
The press notes opened with a single word: happiness. “On the journey back to doing what we love most, in the wake of immeasurable loss, loneliness, fear, anxiety and uncertainty, I am reminded of why creativity is so vital to our existence,” Jacobs said. “To life.” Having swerved the digital presentations adopted by many of his peers over the past 18 months, the designer staged his first Covid-era showcase on a real runway, with a real – albeit small – audience (all guests had presented proof of vaccination). The show was also beamed onto the facade of Bergdorf Goodman for all of Manhattan to see, part of Jacobs’s efforts to create a “shared experience”, and offer a much-needed “moment of inspiration, curiosity, wonder and possibility”. Mission accomplished.
Beneath the snug beanies, inflated hoods and voluminous snoods, onlookers could discern the unmistakable features of the new-gen supers. Imaan Hammam’s camel skirt and chunky red roll neck with gently elongated sleeves was styled with prim ankle socks and platform Mary-Janes, while Gigi Hadid sported the shimmering paillettes that were a recurring theme of the collection.
Jacobs’s celebration of joy and creativity manifested in graphic logos, geometric prints and a rainbow of colour. The collection nodded to the functional with giant puffer collars and quilted snoods, but added a playful formalwear spin courtesy of trailing faux fur stoles and opera gloves. The platform Mary-Janes that accompanied each look were exactly what you’d expect from a man who wore disco boots to get his Covid jabs.
What will life look like by fall? God and Professor Chris Whitty willing, our social lives might actually be back in full swing, in which case, what better way to rise to the occasion than in Jacobs’s jumbo paillettes, which decorated dresses worn over snug knits and flared trousers?
The injection of shimmer, and a selection of flesh-baring cut-out bodysuits, nodded to our re-emergence wardrobes, but the collection also reflected fashion’s recent obsession with all things functional. Duvet coats were amped up with bold prints and ample hoods perfect for anyone harbouring a secret desire to keep social distancing forever.
Originally published on Vogue.co.uk