Colossal was the operative word for Riccardo Tisci’s debut collection as chief creative officer at Burberry. But anyone musing that the 134 looks ticked too many boxes will have found some reasoning behind Tisci’s catwalk output in the weeks following the show. “Kingdom”, as the Spring 2019 line is officially titled, and the three sub sections within it – “Refined”, “Relaxed” and “Evening” – really does have mass appeal.
A handful of household celebrity names have been quick to sport the designs and flash their #kingdom looks on Instagram. And while this might not seem like breaking fashion news, because all celebrity stylists clamor to secure their clients fresh-off-the-catwalk drops, each of Burberry’s new fan girls has very different style. So, Tisci’s mission to dress everyone – “The mother and the daughter, the father and the son,” he told press metaphorically after the show – proved successful before the international fashion weeks had even come to a close. Snap.
First up, the popstars. Maya Arulpragasam, better known by her stage name M.I.A., chose a fawn-printed shirt and trench coat for a landmark moment in her career, the release of her documentary, MATANGI/ MAYA/M.I.A. Rihanna and Madonna soon followed and got in on Tisci’s trench action. The former wore a satin trompe-l’œil design as a dress while promoting Fenty Beauty in Dubai, and the latter belted a classic cotton trench over jeans for a brief hotel-to-car appearance in Paris. Anyone who thought that the soft tailoring and ladylike silhouettes presented in the “Refined” section would only translate to the bourgeois Burberry woman were wrong. Tisci has got three pop powerhouses behind him who can vouch for that.
Elsewhere, Tisci’s beige proposition piqued the interest of Julia Roberts and Carey Mulligan. Roberts chose a pale pleated skirt, blazer and square-toed heels in keeping with her refined style for the promo trail of her new Amazon series, Homecoming. And Mulligan opted for the most directional choice of all: ruched brown leather trousers, to make a statement at a film industry event.
Although five celebrities is undoubtedly a trend, Tisci has got 50 shades of beige for everyone. Expect the “Refined”, “Relaxed” and “Evening” looks to extend beyond his social sphere as Burberry’s new chapter really starts to unfold.
This article first appeared on Vogue.co.uk