Kylie Jenner’s Schiaparelli Lion Dress: The Making of Paris Fashion Week's Most Controversial Look

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Kylie Jenner wearing a fake taxidermy Schiaparelli gown at Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Instagram.com

That Paris Couture Week will result in a few head-turning FROW looks is a given. But it’s safe to say that nobody could have predicted the wildfire that Kylie Jenner was all set to spark on Day 1 of the Spring 2023 Couture showcases when she walked in wearing an LBD that will forever change the way one talks about the staple.

Spotted sauntering into Schiaparelli’s show venue, Kylie Jenner took over the internet last afternoon dressed in one of the label’s latest pieces: a strapless bodycon black number in velvet that featured a fake taxidermy lion’s head on the bustier, complete with glassy eyes, shockingly real mane, and killer fangs. The look was, as predicted, the stuff of viral discussions, and didn’t come without a strong dose of controversy. But what was the thought behind it?

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Taking inspiration from The Divine Comedy, poet Dante Alighieri’s masterpiece that was divided into three sections—namely Inferno, Purgatorio, and Paradiso—Daniel Roseberry‘s latest drop showcased meticulously crafted pieces that focused on the three sinful animal symbols Dante wrote of: the leopard (lust), the lion (pride), and the she-wolf (avarice), with Jenner championing major Leo energy with her dress. “NO ANIMALS WERE HARMED IN MAKING THIS LOOK,” the Schiaparelli page announced on Instagram while sharing a deep dive into the making of the ensemble that’s got the world divided. Embroidered on hand sculpted foam, resin, wool and silk faux fur, each animal head seen on the runway yesterday was hand painted to look as life-like as possible. Scroll through the post below to see how the Schiaparelli team brought each piece to life.

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While the level of craftsmanship behind each piece deserves a moment (you’d be forgiven for shuddering at the almost disturbing realness of each wild cat’s face), what’s got thousands across the globe talking is the larger message a collection like Schiaparelli’s is bound to send out to the world, especially to those who may not know of what truly inspired the showcase. Roseberry’s intention with each look was “celebrating the beauty of nature and guarding the woman who wears it,” but given the many conversations around sustainable fashion and animal abuse that have risen to the spotlight in the past decade alone, one must ask the question: Does a collection like Roseberry’s glamorize killing wildlife?

“We have to stop showing animals as luxury ‘products’. They may be made from foam, but these are endangered species that have historically been killed for their pelts to be turned into garments,” one follower wrote on Instagram. “Today there could be as few as 4,000 [snow leopards] left in the wild. These images only show these animals have value in their death.” Model Alla Kostromichova was among the many who also made a point to share her thoughts, “So sad (even if those are totally fake the message behind it will cause a lot of uncontrollable hunting….)” and environment activist Mahdi Laith added “You’re supporting the illegal hunting even if it’s fake!”

PETA too joined the conversation, highlighting that despite not using real big game for its collection, Schiaparelli—and countless more brands—can continue taking steps towards a more planet-friendly approach to fashion.

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With thousands debating the true meaning and effect of Schiaparelli’s new offerings, the conversation that we must zero in on is animal welfare, and the responsibility of each creative to maintain, protect, and celebrate the elements of nature that make our world a joy to live in. Below, a closer look at the Inferno Couture line, and the process behind its conception.