Vibrant blooms, bold logos, and disco-ready crystal – these are the jewelry statements that will help to spark joy this season.
Following a year of largely online living, designers have found inspiration in Zoom-cropped faces, with a focus on figurative jewelry in the form of earrings with eye motifs (Arthur Arbesser, Osman) and lip brooches (Victoria Beckham).
Of course, for Schiaparelli, the obsession with body parts is more than just a fleeting trend – it’s part of the house DNA – and for fall Daniel Roseberry made sure his predecessor’s surreal legacy remained strong with face motifs cast in gold, molded in leather, or quilted in wool crepe. White nose-shaped earrings, lip brooches, and chunky chain necklaces dripping in decapitated charms were a celebration of the body and a reminder (if one was needed), that now, more than ever, is the time to have fun with fashion.
Much like fall’s wildly different fashion expressions, choker proposals were creatively inconsistent with options in leather (Acne), spring-like coils (Sportmax), and jewel-encrusted chunky chains (Gucci).
Logomania has taken over ready-to-wear and jewelry as designers put their names loud and proud on everything from earrings to boots, bags, and brooches.
What can be more optimistic than a budding, fresh bloom? Channeling their desire for joy, designers have incorporated floral motifs into everything from oversized earrings (Alberta Ferretti) to chainlink necklaces (Acne), in a variety of materials, including enamel-painted metal (Y/Project), fabric (Prabal Gurung), and feathers (Peter Do). A longtime signature of Simone Rocha, mismatched meticulously crafted beads were paired with leather biker jackets, Edwardian balloon-sleeved dresses, and layers of tulle embroidered with cascades of white and ivory owers for a collection she aptly named Winter Roses. Combined with faux natural pearls hand-painted with blooms and porcelain cameo earrings, the accessory offering was as poignantly beautiful as the fashion.
A splash of fluoro via colored enamel and lacquer is about as uplifting as it gets.
On the fringe
Crystal in diamanté form delivered major bling via exaggerated chandelier earrings at Lanvin, Chanel, and Saint Laurent.
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Originally published in the September 2021 issue of Vogue Arabia