“For me, the runway can’t be a video,” Simon Porte Jacquemus told Vogue of the dramatic co-ed spring/summer 2021 show he staged in a rolling wheat field outside of Paris. “It’s at the heart of what we do; it’s not superficial. It’s important to all of us to continue, just like a restaurant that reopens. It’s like a movie of a summer day. It’s our life.”
From the designer’s declaration of love for his team, to the conversation-starter accessories, here’s everything you need to know about the chicest sheaves to ever cross fashion.
Love was in the air
The Pepto-Bismol pink spring/summer 2020 runway was always going to be hard to beat, but the designer found a picturesque spot in the French Vexin Regional National Park that was a worthy contender – and, crucially, Instagram gold. One hundred guests were seated on the sidelines of a makeshift 600m wooden catwalk winding through a vast, dramatic wheat field. The rolling sheaves evoked Porte Jacquemus’s romantic side – he spoke of emulating the feeling of “a simple country wedding or a harvest festival”, and dedicated the “L’Amour” collection to his team. Cue 100 swoons from the lucky attendees sat on woven chairs cocooned within the long grasses.
The Jacquemus bride is a vision of sublime simplicity
Speaking of weddings, Porte Jacquemus has seemingly set his sights on the bridal market. Two white Kate Moss-worthy slip dresses bookended the collection, while a dramatic white gown with an undulating peplum hem was as close to meringue territory as the Jacquemus bride will get. Worn with mismatched spiral or Le Chiquito bag earrings and a single heavy bracelet, saying “I do” never looked chicer.
Bags got fruity
There might be a new Chiquito Noeud bag on the scene for spring/summer 2021, but we were rather taken by the strawberry punnet bags dangling from models’ wrists. The boxy leather design is roomy enough for a small box of berries, so you can be the best-dressed – and most-equipped – guest at the picnic. Get your friend to carry the leather harness accessories housing plates, so you can stop for a strawb in a scenic setting at a moment’s notice.
Hygiene-conscious accessories were naturally du jour
A micro bar of Marseille soap was suspended on a gold chain as just one of several talking-point accessories. Porte Jacqueumus paired his squeaky-clean neck charm with Le Chiquito hoop earrings for instant conversation starters that also nodded to the current climate.
Midriff flossing is going nowhere
Maxi skirts and cropped shirts were affixed with ties that wrapped around the stomach to draw attention to models’ midriffs. Designers including Christopher Esber and Supriya Lele have been doing tummy ties for a while, but here they were married with architectural silhouettes up top, so there was plenty for the eye to land on. Consider it 2021’s answer to the belly chain.
Originally published on Vogue.co.uk