Astrological symbols stitched in gold thread, rare Khaleeji stamps celebrating the ’60s moon landing, and Arabian mysticism merge in Saudi streetwear brand Hindamme‘s third collection, aptly titled ‘Season Three’. Vogue.me reviews the brand’s next move and speaks to the founding designer about what’s next.
The new season womenswear and menswear collection are unified in one shoot that oozes the brand’s clever merger of Eastern and Western aesthetics without diluting its heritage. No easy feat, but founding designer Mohammed F. Khoja delivers once again. There’s a fresh layer of confidence to Khoja’s latest designs. No doubt thanks to his brand’s successful launched to market in 2016 at the tipping point when luxury streetwear collided with premium fashion. There are other Saudi labels pointing to a similar demographic (Think Arwa Al Banawi‘s off-duty ready-to-wear and Coded Nation‘s hoodies by the Abdul sisters). Khoja and his contemporaries have cut a new groove in Middle Eastern design; one for confident, relaxed threads that warrant a need-it-know consumer impulse. When Hindamme first collection of Sadu printed bombers hit the online store, resistance was futile… Cue: Click to cart.
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The time is certainly now for intelligent ready-to-wear that relates directly to the rich heritage of the Middle East. For some, the sequin tops and Arabic slogans might pass them by but look closer and you’ll see Saudi historical references that’ll draw in a culture-hungry customer. “The calligraphy on the piece is taken from a phrase from a prominent national figure in Saudi Arabia, the former oil minister and it reads, “from the deserts to the world of ‘oil’ in Arabic,” Khoja tells Vogue.me. “I feel like the statement is a powerful and classic tale of a renaissance that so many people in the world can relate to one way or another, it’s a metaphor for a story of rags to riches in a sense. And from an outside perspective, I also feel that the statement has been used to negatively stereotype Arabs and my hope is to be able to take this statement and own it with a sense of pride.”
Khoja’s commitment to demi-couture detailing elevates his collection for Season Three. Take the hero piece from the women’s ready-to-wear, the sequin bomber jacket loaded with over two million sequins. “The fabrics of these bombers are produced by specialized couturiers,” Khoja tells Vogue.me “In tune with the brand and collection’s identity, one of the sequin bombers depicts a modern black and white geometric all over sequin and lace pattern and another features a cubism inspired all black sequin pattern.” T-shirts and bomber jackets can be classed as easy-to-wear and have an element of universality to them: they suitably blur the lines between menswear and womenswear, and bridges vastly differing cultures without protest. “From its roots, it’s also an aspirational style, starting small within subcultures and growing to its current influence by inspiring major fashion houses,” adds Khoja. “With Hindamme, I make an effort to blend both elements of high fashion and streetwear, they are both polar opposites but at the same time blend so cohesively.”
Having collaborated with Kuwaiti-based artist Ali Cha’aban and photographer Rayan Nawawi, the Hindamme designer next move is to design furniture, incorporating his love of heritage patterns (A Sadu patterned chaise lounge, anyone?). No less, Khoja will also commemorate the news of Saudi women being able to drive in the Kingdom with a capsule collection. “As a designer from Saudi Arabia, I was very moved with the decision to lift the ban on driving for women in Saudi and I plan on introducing a capsule collection of collectible souvenir jackets for both men and women in the next month to commemorate the date in which the rule takes effect.” In and amongst launching an art event in Jeddah in the coming weeks and sourcing stockist for Season three in Europe, Asia, and the US, we count the atelier of Hindamme to be rather busy.
Hindamme Season 3 will be available in Rubaiyat stores across Saudi Arabia, Life Stores, and online.