For Gucci, there was no better place than the 13th-century Castel del Monte located in Andria in the Apulia region of southeast Italy to host its Cruise 2023 show titled ‘Cosmogonie’. Its octagonal shape and the mathematical and astronomical precision of its layout perfectly fit the vision Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, had behind the collection.
Gucci’s ‘Cosmogonie’ is a vibrant ode to Walter Benjamin, the great philosopher behind the Theses on the Philosophy of History. A thinker, and a collector of quotations, he believed that “It’s not what is past casts its light on what is present, or what is present its light on what is past; rather, image is that wherein what has been comes together in a flash with the now to form a constellation”.
At 8:45pm sharp, 340 people from all around the world were gathered under the sky of Andria, ready to view the show. Spotted there were stars and friends of the House including actors Dakota Johnson, Jodie Turner-Smith, Elle Fanning, and musical artists Lana Del Rey and Måneskin. With a circular runway surrounding the castle, the collection opened to the fitting soundtrack of ‘Charms’ by Abel Korzeniowski mixed with the recording of the first moon landing, inviting guests to a journey bound to space.
Gucci’s Cruise 2023 collection offers a mix of styles—fragments of elements that are distant in time and space, and rearticulating them into bursting constellations, just like Benjamin’s way of thinking. Cascades of sequins embroidered on medieval gowns as well as on denim, an all-leather trenchcoat, sequined tailored pantsuit, ruffs, pearls, zig-zag lines, and glittery capes were seen on the catwalk. They were all elevated with an assortment of strong and standout accessories including gladiator shoes, laced-up stiletto boots, latex gloves, platform sandals, lace-up thigh-high boots, color-blocked hats, red-tinted sunglasses, and wooden handbags. For the finale, a blue floor-grazing gown covered in dazzling constellations made its way down the runway, making it a starry night to remember.