Hot on the heels of her debut venture in Arabia, the world’s most feted female chef, Anne-Sophie Pic, reflects on finding success in a male-dominated industry. Celebrating her big moment, Vogue Arabia brings together eight Middle Eastern luminaries — namely Lojain Omran, Chanel Ayan, Diala Makki, Nadine Kanso, Rami Al Ali, Taj Pillot, Abdulla Beljafla, and Hamad Al Mheiri — to create a mesmerizing tableau where more is more.
One of the most anticipated culinary launches in Dubai took place earlier this year with the opening of La Dame De Pic at the One&Only One Za’abeel. For Anne-Sophie Pic, the world’s most Michelin- starred female chef, this is her first restaurant in the region. Located inside The Link – the resort’s floating boulevard on its 25th floor – her latest venture is animating the city’s food scene with her unique brand of unexpected and innovative dishes.
For the duration of a meal, visitors can expect a full-on epicurean escape courtesy of the French cuisinier. Complex flavors spanning from the delicate to the elaborate abound: local beans glazed with carvi honey, red mullet cooked over embers, turmeric sorbet to top it all off. Pic’s focus is on meaningfully engaging with her surroundings by delving into the tastes and customs of the region and establishing relationships with nearby farmers and producers. That said, patrons will still find her signature plates on the menu, such as the Berlingots ASP pasta parcels with mushroom consommé, beeswax, and meadowsweet leaves. Her father’s iconic seabass with caviar is also featured but with a twist, and the Bavaroise with almonds dessert is alcohol-free. This immersive dining experience is further enhanced by luxurious yet welcoming interiors designed by Pic’s compatriots, Bruno Moinard and Claire Bétaille.
From a long lineage of food aficionados, the self-taught Pic has mastered the art of sharing a certain joie de vivre and lifestyle rooted in her heritage, tradition, and a singular point of view. Add to that her drive for excellence along with a sense of authenticity and humility, and you have the ultimate recipe for success. But her spectacular CV was not always as sweet as the celebrated status she enjoys in the culinary industry today. In fact, there’s a sprinkle of bitterness that comes with navigating a profession dominated by men and persevering to run her own world- renowned kitchen.
“I am the daughter and granddaughter of chefs. My entire childhood was immersed in the profession of my parents. I remember the smells coming from the kitchen and the whirlwind of the service like an enchanted dance,” Pic recalls. Although she didn’t go into the business right away, following other academic pursuits and travel, she realized the immense privilege of having access to a rich familial history of gastronomic talent. She returned to her Valence home in the southeast of France to learn and apprentice with her father. Cooking, after all, is in her DNA: “I represent the fourth generation of chefs, which began when my great-grandmother, Sophie Pic, founded the Auberge du Pin in Saint-Péray in Ardèche, France, in 1889. My grandfather, André Pic, and then my father, Jacques Pic, followed the same path and both of them received three Michelin stars each,” she says. “This is a happy succession that inspires me everyday. My father was my reference and he taught me to learn from my own mistakes.”
As for her own accolades, Pic clarifies that “having a Michelin star is not an end in itself.” If anything, the stars are the fuel propelling her to dream bigger, to expand upon this practice without restraint.
Despite such unbridled ambitions, there are inherent limitations that have stood in the way of reaching the top of an industry led by men. When the trail-blazer began her career in the 1990s, there weren’t that many female chefs, she points out, which means much of her time and energy went into convincing others of her right to be doing the job in the first place. Given Pic is not classically trained, doubters considered this to be another reason to question if she would do justice to her family name. But the skepticism only compelled her to redouble her efforts and achieve technical excellence. Not being too bound up in the established codes of her craft allowed Pic to find her own path towards honing her culinary style, which is now influenced by her gender in more productive ways: “In my case, my femininity is present in all of my work with my team and of course, in my cooking. However, I support mixed kitchens because the male-female ratio is complementary and allows for a serene and soothing atmosphere.”
In life outside the kitchen, Pic describes how the personal and the professional are intimately linked for her. She has been collaborating and traveling with her husband, David Sinapian, for the past 30 years. With him as the visionary behind the strategic and developmental aspects of the business, Pic is able to devote herself to the imaginative and expressive side of things. Recently, this has come to fruition in the form of her 2023 book, Imprégnation, which is equal parts cooking and art. With the publication of an English translation on the horizon, the endeavor is a way to share her love for what she does, along with a plethora of ingredients, with a wider audience.
Style: Amine Jreissati
Hair: Deena Alawaid / Sebastian Iskander
Makeup: Safiyah Cassim
Set designer: Yehia Bedier
Creative Producer: Beya Bou-Harb
DOP: Mano Alajajian
Assistant set designer: Omar Shabaan
Assistant stylist: Sahar Ghoubar
Wardrobe assistant: Gregory Samoilov, Sarah Abou Shady, Stefania Cioban
Assistant hairstylist: Lindie Benade
Location: Raffles The Palm Dubai
Table decor: Tanagra
Special thanks: Flower Society
Originally published in the September 2024 issue of Vogue Arabia