The FW19 shows were all about getting away from the reality of today’s political climate and dreaming of a fantasy world and eternal beauty. The shows created an inclusive universe where diversity is celebrated rather than obscured. More than ever, we saw designers opting for an increasingly varied cast for their runway shows. It’s not just a trend anymore, it’s a fact: diverse, multi-ethnic castings make better fashion shows.
We saw the runway debut of Somali hijabi model Ugbad Abdi at Burberry, Fendi, Lanvin and more. We also spotted plus-size model Lauren Chan, who clapped back at internet trolls for coming after her for her when she walked the 11 Honoré show in New York.
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Moncler Genius gained a substantial amount of traction with his eclectic collection of nylon laqué puffer gowns in collaboration with Ethiopian model and designer Liya Kebede. Karl Lagerfeld passed away just two days before the poignant Fendi show, having held the position as the house’s creative director since 1965. His last collection for Fendi was filled with his style tics from when he first joined forces with the Italian fashion house.
Among all the innovation we have witnessed in the last seasons, some designers went back to basics for FW19, embracing femininity and vulnerability in their collections. Grasping what it means to be a woman and celebrating it to the fullest, a new appreciation for simplicity and delicacy dominated the runways. Below, we look at some styles you will definitely be seeing a lot of in the colder months.
This year we’re bringing out our 80s-inspired alter egos. Think Alexis Colby from Dynasty: add sequins and glitter, and then top it with shine and glam. Full-length dresses covered in sparkling pearls, beads, and sequins were seen at Saint Laurent. If you want to keep it light and airy, dresses from Attico and Alberta Ferretti in hyper-reflective fabrics will definitely keep the attention on you the whole night.
For the coming season, you want to get your hands on dramatic ruffles. They have been around for a couple of seasons, but now they’re getting bigger and bolder. Rule the ruffle in Louis Vuitton or Rodarte, who chose to go massive. Not surprisingly, it was also a classic detail for the See by Chloé girl, who will wear this in her favorite sun-bleached blush color. This is a feminine feature you will soon be spotting on dresses, blouses, and jackets.
Modern modesty is the new form of elegance and for the coming season, you want to layer up rather than reveal. Think long over-layering in purist whites, as seen at Helmut Lang, and if you want to take it up a notch, wear a midi dress with a pair of silk trousers. Yes, that’s right, tunics and trousers are back in the game. Go for tonal looks as seen at Lemaire and The Row. Simply pair it up like the Phoebe Philo-inspired minimalist looks from Jil Sander in black and whites.
While most of us live in busy cities, we all long for weekend escapes out in the wild, far away from everything, to connect with nature and appreciate what’s handmade and imperfectly perfect. Getting away from technology, gadgets, and over-connectivity. You want to opt for earth tones and natural materials like cotton, linen, and wool to really get the mood right. Michael Kors was definitely on board with this, with its daisy-printed dresses and use of natural hues and fabrics. It was also, as expected, a typical vibe at Jacquemus, with tons of leopard prints and zesty yellows.
The sartorialist will thrive the next season, as tailoring was present on nearly all the runways. The options are endless: the minimalist will get their fix with 3.1 Phillip Lim, the intellectual will find their calling at Acne Studios, and the classical need not venture far from Burberry, where Riccardo Tisci gave the youth of today a voice. Feeling a bit peckish? Have a look at Missoni’s gelato-tinted tailored pieces.
Lastly, to finish your winter wardrobe, you want to mark your waist. A belt will get you far; however, designers also embedded this feature in some of their evening dresses, such as the gathered waist seen at Proenza Schouler, or the flattering princess cuts at Marc Jacobs. Femininity is key here. The belt also works well on more austere tailoring pieces, as seen at Helmut Lang and with Prada’s ladylike, soft, luxurious woolen coats.