Another season has officially begun and with it, some truly great prospects for SS20: head-turning gowns, enlightened layering proposals (puff-sleeve dresses over denim, anyone?), experimentation with unexpected materials and print, and tailored suiting and separates that will merge effortlessly with your existing wardrobes.New York has started strong, with plenty of looks that will test its ‘commercial capital’ status – designers aren’t playing it so safe this season, and it’s all the better for it. Take for example, Brandon Maxwell’s show and an audience that was as vibrant as the new, ‘looser’ aesthetic the designer is favoring – gone is the super polished eveningwear and in its place, an emphasis on elegant yet ultra-wearable daywear. Jonny Johansson of Acne Studios went back to nature, working with fabrics that appeared timeworn, homespun and earthy yet the overall effect was elevated thanks to the addition of crystals, gold foil, charms and Western buckles – tactile embellishments that remind you, this is luxury.
Jeremy Scott’s version of luxury is a little more ‘shouty’ and not of this world – pure, unadulterated escapism. With this collection, he admitted, he was out to “have fun.” And so it began, his “neon rock opera” which dipped in-and-out of music (rockabilly, New Wave, heavy metal), cult classic films and fashion genres with such fearless exuberance that it would be impossible not to appreciate it for what it is: brash, brilliantly bold and uplifting theatre – a drama that is nevertheless underpinned by some serious craftsmanship. When there’s so much chaos in the world, isn’t it nice to just to take in a show?
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