Schiaparelli, Dior, Rami Al Ali
Read on for all the highlgihts from day one of Paris haute couture week fall/winter 2021-22 — from Pieter Mulier’s debut show for Alaïa to Dior’s masterful homage to textile.
Alaïa
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Yesterday marked the return of couture week and it opened with the debut show of Alaïa’s new creative director, Pieter Mulier. Faithful to Azzedine Alaïa’s style, Mulier celebrated the female beauty adding to the DNA of the brand a pinch of modernity. The perfectly balanced silhouettes formed an Alaïa army to kick off the week.
Read on for more highlights from day one of haute couture week and check back for more updates.
Georges Hobeika
Georges Hobeika‘s emblematic signature is back. Mixing feathers and sparkling crystals, mystery, and sobriety, Hobeika’s fall 21/22 is a comeback of his minimal extravagance and joyful romanticism of the 1960s.
Rami Al Ali
Photo: Courtesy of Rami Al Ali
Photo: Courtesy of Rami Al Ali
Photo: Courtesy of Rami Al Ali
In an unashamed ode to opulence, Rami Al Ali takes creative cues from the photography series “Seduction” by Cyril Porchet. In a full white and gold collection, with intricate handwork, the designer also explored the curiosity around architecture.
Schiaparelli
Undoubtedly, Schiaparelli is one of the most awaited shows of the season. Entitled “the matador,” the fall/winter 21-22 couture collection by creative director Daniel Roseberry is not from Spanish influence, but a homage to a coat that Elsa Schiaparelli designed with her friend, poet, and artist Jean Cocteau. Bold, extravagant, and unbelievably new, the Schiaparelli collection is a bouquet of craft and creation.
Dior
After presenting her collections for Dior through films during the lockdown, Maria Grazia Chiuri emphasized, more than ever, the importance of fabric and the language of embroideries in her comeback physical show during Paris fashion week. Recalling the “salle aux broderies” in the Colonna Palace in Rome, the work titled Chambre de Soie and created by French artist Eva Jospin, serves as an impressive backdrop for the presentation of Chiuri’s magnificent pleated dresses, trains, and hand-woven chains that compose patterns on the body. The show was a mix of art and extraordinary savoir-faire.
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli’s fall 2021 couture collection was filled with vibrant, youthful, and bold pieces. The color palette ranged from chic black to pastel lights, with a touch of red. He also brought cloud-like whimsical tulle dresses, draped chiffon gowns and capes, and elegant sequin dresses along with bright feathered gowns. Including men’s couture is a first for Valli, as cool, nonchalant, and sharp capes and shirts brought a whole new vibe to the brand.
Azzaro Couture
Honoring the late Loris Azzaro’s previous daring disco designs, current creative director Olivier Theyskens, incorporated shimmering silver sequins, power-shoulders, and waist-snatching skirts to bring back the vision of previous collections. This year’s collection opened with a bedazzled silver sequin-covered suit like a disco ball followed by liquid platinum suits, slinky, sparkling dresses, and jumpsuits.
Read Next: “To Have and to Hold” Dior Fall 2021 Couture Beckons to Be Touched
