With Men’s Fashion Week coming to a close, we turn our gaze to the French capital for Paris Couture Week. In the mix on the official show schedule, ready-to-wear collections from major maisons, who have relocated from New York and London, join the hive of activity on the French capital. Here, we round up the five talking points from the first day of the couture shows.
#1. Arab Designer’s Take the Runway by Storm
Arab couturiers Rami Al Ali and Georges Hobeika presented their Spring 2018 Haute Couture collections during the first day of Paris Couture Week on Monday. The Dubai-based, Syrian designer presented his Fall 2017 couture offering in the French capital. Al Ali displayed his lineup of sorbet-colored eveningwear to editors, clients, and brand loyalists at the Ritz Paris. The offering featured expertly-tailored jumpsuits with draped sleeves, embellished gowns with beaded appliqués, and kaftan-like dresses sure to find fans with his Middle Eastern clientele.
Hobeika, who officially opened his Beirut atelier in 1995, has shown his couture collections in every biannual Paris Couture Fashion Week since 2001. Hobeika’s Spring 2018 couture collection was inspired by Ancient Greek, and served as an exquisite tribute to the bygone era.
In an exclusive interview with Features Director, Caterina Minthe, the designer added, “I’ve been looking through lots of books on the topic of Greek history. Women were regarded as being very strong and they didn’t hesitate to reveal their beauty.” In a bid to evoke this lineage of girl power in the form of haute design, his collection featured crystal-adorned tunics and embellished kaftans made for the designer’s red carpet clientele. The collection concluded with a final, jaw-dropping bridal look with a sheer, crystal-embellished bodice and ruffled, pouf skirt.
#2. Maria Grazia Chiuri Presents a Surrealist-Inspired Collection for Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from The Surrealists and rule-breaking Argentinian female artist Leonor Fini, for the Christian Dior Spring 2018 couture collection. Model’s, including Gisele Fox and Teddy Quinlivan, strutted down a checkerboard runway at the Musée Rodin wearing dream-like masks, created by British milliner Stephen Jones. The collection was punctuated with chiffon dresses, optical printed gowns, and black tuxedos.
The runway offering was presented against a backdrop of sculptural ears, noses, and torsos hanging from the ceiling. When it came to the makeup, Peter Philips created feathered, painted-on lashes that extended past the temples and evoked the 1960’s. Some models took to the runway with phrases inked along their collarbones like a necklace, which pulled from the work of André Breton, the founder of the Surrealist movement and author of the Surrealist Manifesto. Moroccan-British model and Vogue Arabia December cover star Nora Attal was among the models who walked the show.
#3. Schiaparelli, Proenza Schouler, and Giambattista Valli
Other houses to present their most recent collections include Schiaparelli, Giambattista Valli, and Proenza Schouler. A major highlight? The pink, ruffled chiffon dress at Giambattista Valli, and practically screamed, “Wear me now, Rihanna“. While Schiaparelli and Giambattista Valli showcased their Spring 2018 couture collections, Proenza Schouler showed its Fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection. It was the second time that the brand has presented its new-season collection in Paris, after breaking away from New York Fashion Week calendar.
#4. Camila Coelho Models the Final Bridal Look at Ralph & Russo
Brazilian model and influencer Camila Coelho closed the Ralph & Russo show, wearing a stunning bridal look. The dress was created with silk satin duchesse fabric, and encrusted with 3,000 hand sewn 3D Swarovski jeweled leaves. Dreamed up by 30 specialist artisans, the wedding gown included over 1,200 meters of cord and hand embroidered silk floss thread flowers, 200,000 Swarovski crystals, and took about 2,000 hours to complete. Creative Director, Tamara Ralph of Ralph & Russo told Vogue.me: “Digital reach and social media is crucial in today’s luxury industry and as a brand.” She adds, “We are so excited to be working with Camila Coelho this season. She is a true leader in her field and truly embodies the Ralph & Russo woman. We couldn’t have wished for a better bride this season.” Echoing on her statement, the newly-engaged fashion influencer told Vogue, “To be invited to be the bride was just a dream, and being here in Paris preparing for this moment has been so amazing. As an influencer, I’m not a model and I have never walked in a show before, so this has been a very different experience for me and a truly special moment.”
#5. Jhené Aiko and Big Sean Are the Most Stylish Couple at Fashion Week
Singer Jhené Aiko and rapper Big Sean proved to be the most stylish couple during the first day of Paris Couture Week. The pair, who sat front row at the Dior Homme menswear shows wearing coordinated looks, arrived at Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring 2018 Couture showcase for Christian Dior wearing matching, scene-stealing looks. Aiko opted for a colorful patchwork overcoat from the brand’s Resort collection, while Sean wore a Francois Bard windbreaker.