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How Stuart Vevers Reinvented American Cool

Stuart Vevers’ CV reads like a fairytale career in fashion, from his first post working with Calvin Klein in 1996 to a headhunted position at Bottega Veneta, followed by leading Loewe into its luxury renaissance. Taking up the helm as creative director at Coach in 2013, Vevers is duly credited as reviving the American fashion house with its status as New York’s cool luxury brand du jour. With poster girl Selena Gomez starring in its 2017 campaigns–shot by the legendary Steven Meisel, with styling by Karl Templer, creative direction by Fabien Baron, make-up by Pat McGrath and hair by Guido Palau. The future looks studded with highlights for the all-American brand and wrapped in a sepia-tinted glow. 

Selena Gomez Coach Spring 2017

Selena Gomez for the Coach Spring 2017 campaign. Photographed by Steven Miesel.

Vogue Arabia talks to Vevers ahead of yet another busy day at the brand’s HQ, to decode how Coach fast-forwards its heritage legacy (circa 1941) into a future at the cutting edge of the cult-youth high fashion zeitgeist.

On his Kick-Starter Season at Coach

I feel very fortunate that the first season was put together in a very short time, [it was] very instinctive [and completed in an] emotional way. It resonated with the industry. It gave me confidence in my vision. From that moment on I could push forward. It gave the people around me confidence, too. While we’ve evolved, that original vision is still there.

Coach creative director stuart vevers

Coach Spring 2017. Indigital

On Professor Cool

One of the observations I made when I first studied the brand is that you can trace the story of New York cool to the very early ‘40s. I’ve spent some time with a Professor of Cool [Joel Dinerstein] who has done a study on American cool [and worked on the Coach book with Vevers]. NYC is one of the coolest cities on the planet.

Selena Gomez and Stuart Vevers. @coach/Instagram

On Selena Gomez

It’s always inspiring to see your clothes worn by someone you admire. I admired [Selena Gomez’s] point of view, her authentic attitude, and her philanthropic work. She’s a true Coach girl.

On Designer Appreciation Past and Present

[Coco] Chanel, she broke boundaries and modernized the way we look at clothes. She was a very forward-looking designer. [Today] I love the visionaries. Junya Watanabe––he takes classic references and subverts them. I’m a huge fan of Rodarte; they have a really clear and strong aesthetic.

On Quintessential Coach Spring ‘17

I love look 11—a romantic, pretty dress with lots of attitude, [which can be worn] with the ease of a T-shirt. Everything that [Coach does] should have an ease to it. Whilst it’s romantic, I want the Coach girl to show her attitude. Look 16, too, the Elvis T-shirt—it pays homage to an American icon.

Coach creative director stuart vevers

Coach 1941 Spring 2017. Indigital

Coach creative director stuart vevers

Look 16 at Coach 1941 Spring 2017. Indigital

Vevers’ Working Mantra

I used to work with Luella Bartley and we had a poster on the [studio] wall that said, “Work hard and be nice to people.” You can have talent and belief, but nothing comes if you don’t work hard at it; that passion is just as important. We spend so much of our lives working that I want to make it so that it’s not “work,” so that means being around people who trust and respect me, and vice versa.

On Coach’s Future

I’m a positive person and I think positive. Fashion and luxury are always changing. It has always been a dynamic industry… [it’s] faster than ever. I want to be part of that change. Part of what I do is boldly look forward; I’ve been a big youth culture and counterculture [enthusiast], looking at the moments when things shifted. One of the things I love about fashion [nowadays] is that it welcomes more people, it’s diverse.

Coach creative director stuart vevers

Coach 1941 Spring 2017. Indigital

On the New Luxury

The perceptions of what a luxury brand has to be are breaking down dramatically. That is one of the reasons why I was drawn to Coach. I felt the world of luxury was shifting. It’s interesting to explore those things… I’d like people to think of Coach as a house that celebrates individuality, values ease, and [represents] effortless, cool American style.

On the Coach Playlist

The Smiths, The Boy With The Thorn In His Side, Girls Aloud, Call the Shots, 5 Star, Can’t Wait Another Minute, and Beastie Boys, Sure Shot.

Lead Image: Coach 1941 Pre-Fall 2017. Indigital. First published on Vogue.me in January 2017.

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