Chanel unveiled its latest high jewelery line at none other than London’s Royal Horticultural Halls. The unveiling of “Tweed de Chanel” comes three years after the maison’s first launch where Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Fine jewelry had “dreamt of a jewelry collection in tweed.” His imagination and creative ideas came to life for this presentation in what can only be described as pure magic. “For this new high jewelry collection dedicated to tweed, I wanted to go further in the interpretation by creating a veritable fabric of precious stones that is light and supple,” he shared. Leguéreau also discussed his fascination with tweed and how he wanted the jewelry to represent Gabrielle Chanel’s liberation. “I wanted the jewelry to feel light, freeing and easy-to-wear, keeping Chanel’s core values at the heart of this collection was important to me.”
In 1925, Gabrielle Chanel met the Duke of Westminster, and the late designer spent time in Scotland, inspired by the idyllic landscape and the discovery of River Tweed as named in Scottish borders. Gabrielle Chanel took tweed and made it her own, one of the most essential features in the Chanel style vocabulary now re-interpreted over time to symbolize comfort and elegance. Notably, this collection inspires the very beginnings of the designer’s story and emblematically incorporates woven tweed features into 64 pieces of high jewelry. Leguéreau combined the five icons dear to Gabrielle Chanel – the white ribbon, the pink camellia, the comet against a blue background, the yellow sun, and the lion highlighted with flashes of red. Separated into five chapters, the collection represents a fluidity and softness that is very much present in the origins of the tweed collections.
Tweed Royal is the centrepiece of this collection, and uses diamonds and rubies to set a distinctive lion motif. The necklace, with a yellow gold weave of the plastron necklace is set with diamonds and a magnificent ensemble of rubies. The lion’s head at its centre can be worn as a brooch or as a necklace on the plastron. These pieces are bold, decadent and fearless. Leguéreau mentions that his artisans took almost two years to make this piece. “It is incredibly difficult to sketch an idea and then make that come to life, the jewelers techniques are incredibly intricate and crafted with precision and consideration.”
Other pieces featured in the collection artfully weave tweed notes into the stones, and color and craftsmanship is considered in every piece. The savoir-faire of the House’s jewelers showcases this collection as colorful, using a variety of precious stones and a lightened comfort making the jewelry incredibly wearable. As the late Gabrielle Chanel said, “luxury must be comfortable, otherwise, it is not luxury.”