Photo: Courtesy of Burberry
First Covid, then Brexit officially happened, and now war in Europe… It is fair to say that the world has been through some tough times. Naturally, as history proves over and over again, in moments of instability designers turn to creativity, but also look inside, searching for codes that give its followers reassurance and a feeling that, while all might be collapsing, clothes can provide a sense of belonging and some sort of soothing familiarity. Maybe that’s why Burberry’s FW22 show, presented last Friday in London outside of the official fashion week calendar, was one of the most British – and might we add strongest – collections by Italian designer Riccardo Tisci, who joined the brand in 2018.
The invite. Photo: Manuel Arnaut
The sense of feeling at home started way before the event, when guests received invitations in the form of embroidery hoops emblazoned with the words “Thank You Very Much.” The message was clear: even though Tisci is known for his modern, streetwear approach, this collection also aimed to celebrate the importance of the human touch. After all, London has just lifted all its Covid restrictions, and this was the first in-person show for Burberry since the pandemic started.
Photo: Getty
Attended by Naomi Campbell, Carla Bruni, Kate Moss, and Euphoria star Jacob Elordi, the Burberry show took place in a majestic room at Westminster Hall, which also houses a century-old organ. Without any seating, guests stood in front of an elevated stage, leading to different tables set with all types of silver cutlery, porcelain plates, and crystal glasses that could have been borrowed from a scene of Gosford Park. It was on these dining tables covered in white linen and spread across the room that models stood showcasing the new designs, reaching each table by walking in between the guests.
Kate Moss. Photo: Getty
While fashion was about to be served, music was also a key ingredient at this runway show. And not any music, but magnificent, epic melodies by composers Max Richter and Michael Nyman, interpreted live by the London Contemporary Orchestra, and a 100-person choir.
Photo: Courtesy of Burberry
Although the setup was quite maximalist, Burberry’s designs didn’t get lost in the drama. On the contrary, the designs were equally grand – from deluxe streetwear to lavish feathered ballgowns – and seemed in tune with the ambiance. Being faithful to the real DNA of Burberry, all the main signature codes of the brand were revisited, and deliciously twisted: the Burberry check first used in the 1920s took over looks from head to toe; trenchcoats became long dresses; and kilt and red hunting jackets got urban twists. There were also light trenches dressed with orange polka dots, something you could imagine Diana, Princess of Wales wearing if she was still alive today. Accessories wise, baseball caps, XL headbands, over-the-knee boots and glasses straight out of a very glamorous science fiction movie completed the looks.
Photo: Courtesy of Burberry
As any fashion banquet requires a tasty dessert, one of the most Instagrammed moments of the show (besides Gigi Hadid’s new platinum blond ’do), was a sequence of looks bejeweled with sparkles and crystals, starting on the models’ faces and ending in confident shirts that seem perfect for a night out in a London that is finally buzzing again. This was fashion that fed the soul – and a promising new chapter for Riccardo Tisci’s take on Burberry.
Discover more key moments from the show below.
Photo: Courtesy of Burberry
Photo: Courtesy of Burberry
Photo: Courtesy of Burberry
Photo: Courtesy of Burberry
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