With Storm Eunice wreaking havoc in London, fashion week continued with a mix of physical and digital shows, and designers showcasing their own brand of organized chaos. Upcycling and recycling emerged as major themes of this leg of the fall 2022 fashion month, and runways saw a number of colorful patchwork pieces and uplifting new silhouettes. While these would feel right at home on a modestly dressed influencer’s Instagram feed, they were also practical enough to keep warm in, once the mercury drops.
Matty Bovan showcased de- and reconstructed bomber jackets and parkas, and Conner Ives catered to the Gen-Z with leisure suits, and silk-fringed dresses and skirts, while Elleme brought forth risqué corsetry, made winter-appropriate—and modest—by way of unconventional layers. Nensi Dojaka, the current winner of the LVMH Prize and the designer known for her daring, lingerie-based aesthetic, widened her horizons by presenting a few demure outfits centered around puffer jackets and knitwear. Bahraini label Noon By Noor flew the flag for the region by including a variety of conservative options in its fall collection that flowed seamlessly between sportswear and couture.
A few designers also worked with their strengths in new ways. At Molly Goddard, her colorful ruffled and poodle skirts, and long fishtail dresses came with sensible outerwear and snug layers. Simone Rocha’s lace-trimmed dresses layered over other dresses were contrasted with biker jackets, and Richard Quinn’s signature head-to-toe florals and maximalist silhouettes were further exaggerated. Venturing further into tailoring, Emilia Wickstead’s modest offerings included double-breasted long coats and slightly oversized suits, and Roksanda’s blazers paired with fluid dresses and puffy volumes.
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