Mrs Keepa SS22. Photographed by Rudolf Azzi
The spring 2022 fashion month is marking a new beginning for many Arab labels. While a number of regional designers were notably absent on last year’s digital and physical runways, this year makes up for it as more take the global spotlight.
Read on to see which Middle Eastern designers have made their fashion week debut this season.
Noon By Noor
After showcasing in New York for 16 consecutive seasons followed by a year-long hiatus, Noon By Noor made its move to the London fashion week calendar. Bahraini cousins Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa presented their label’s Collection 2 – Light at East London’s Rochelle School, establishing its presence in the European market. For their return, the designers chose to maintain the label’s codes while drawing inspiration from their home country. “A photograph of Bahraini pearl divers in their sarongs gently gathered and tied at the waist, mixed with dreams of summer sunshine, holiday memories and flowers was the start of our spring collection development,” stated Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa. The minimalistic collection features a mix of structured pieces with masculine details alongside feminine dresses and separates with floral embroidery and mirror work.
Reemami
2016 Vogue Fashion Prize winner Reema Al Banna took her Dubai-based brand Reemami to Milan for its fashion week debut this month. For this special collection, the Lebanese designer chose to pay homage to her culture and heritage by incorporating elements from her childhood memories such as horse riding and food. The artistic work of refugees is celebrated too as Palestinian women contribute their patchworks to the collection which is combined with Al Banna’s own designs to interpret them in a modern way. In a fresh color palette of pink, green, white, and beige, the designer offered pieces featuring her signature playful patterns on a mixture of boxy yet feminine silhouettes.
Ramzen
Saudi designer Abdul Al-Romaizan’s label made its fashion week debut with a collection titled Gioia di Vivere (The Joy of Life). At the Palazzo Serbelloni, the new Italy-based brand featured luxury looks for both men and women in bold colors and prints. The collection was inspired by the “shared global experience of stepping out and embracing fashion once more.” Ahead of the show, Al-Romaizan said in a statement, “I am driven by passion and filled with optimism as we prepare to unveil this collection, which honors my heritage as well as the current vision for Saudi Arabia.”
Mrs Keepa
For her first-ever showcase during Paris fashion week, Egyptian-French designer Mariam Yeya dialed up the signature of her brand Mrs Keepa — color, drama, and daring cuts. Aptly named Harmonious Chaos, the 90-piece collection featured a combination of tailoring and sportswear, easy-to-wear basics, and evening-ready pieces. In keeping with the maximalism the Dubai-based label is best known for, highlights of the pieces included voluminous puff sleeves, wide-leg camo pants, and opera gloves.
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