Searching for humanity and human connection is what the SS23 collection of Alexander McQueen was all about.
Staged between the twin towers of the Old Royal Naval College, the SS23 Alexander McQueen show took place in an inflatable bubble that you might have seen before. It’s the exact same bubble that the fashion house used back in October 2021 for their SS22 show. Not only does the venue proves the sustainable path the brand is taking, but the brand also confirmed that 95 per cent of the fabric used in the show was sustainable.
The eye, a symbol of humanity according to Sarah Burton, was present throughout the show. The eye symbol was obvious in the opening look, and appeared again in details throughout the line, sending out a message: the eye is the start of a thought, of a vision, of an understanding. A matter of human perspective.
Fully deconstructed but perfectly structured, the collection also featured various reinterpretations of the tuxedo. Cropped, slit detailed, asymmetric, backless, there were all there. And all precisely cut and dissected. With a distinctive focus on silhouettes, the collection was a celebration of the woman’s body. Theatrical as it was, every piece from the line was oh-so-wearable—this was not the kind of collection that relies on add-ons to make a statement; rather, a line that could easily walk right off the runway into reality.
Like in each collection, Burton took the opportunity to pay tribute to Lee, and in this SS23 collection she did it by weaving images of Dutch artist Hieronymus Bosch, which involve the flourishing natural world mixed with human violence and miniature demons, to her body-conscious and sleek tailored collection. The stunning interpretation of the artist’s work came in a collage print, and was used for cut-out catsuits, a bodysuit with half a skirt attached and a sculptural, strapless gown.
Despite the cheery backdrop and stunning blue skies above, Sarah Burton managed to put forth yet another hauntingly beautiful, and deliciously dark collection that embodied all that Alexander McQueen has stood for over the years.
Below, take a closer look at some of the most memorable looks from the Alexander McQueen SS23 show.
