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Vintage has continued to grow in popularity in 2022, both on the red carpets and on the pavements. While the obsession with ’90s Jean Paul Gaultier, Tom Ford-era Gucci and John Galliano’s Dior continues, the likes of Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel have also enjoyed major vintage moments over the past 12 months.
As we head into 2023, expect the vintage boom to continue, with a growing number of fashion houses now opening up their archives. Meanwhile, lesser-known designers will be increasingly sought after, as those who’ve caught the vintage bug look to explore different eras of fashion history.
Below, see what the experts predict will be the biggest vintage trends in 2023.
Everyday vintage
In 2022, we saw more celebrities incorporating vintage into their day-to-day wardrobe. And it’s a trend that’s set to continue in 2023, as buying second-hand becomes second nature to more and more people. “The trend for vintage at the big events is pretty well-established,” Cherie Balch, founder of Shrimpton Couture, tells Vogue. “I would like to see that now trickle down and become more a part of regular day dressing – for everyone.”
The Met Gala effect
With the theme of the 2023 Met Gala being Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty, the designer’s extensive archive, from Chanel and Fendi to Patou, is sure to enjoy a resurgence – and not just on the first Monday in May. “I can see people exploring more of Karl Lagerfeld’s work as we get closer to the Met Gala,” Brynn Jones, founder of Aralda Vintage, comments, adding that the designer’s time at Chloé is set to be particularly popular.
Lesser-known designers
It’s not just major brands that are enjoying a revival, lesser-known brands are also set to benefit from the vintage effect. “Some designers that I hope to see more of are Kansai Yamamoto, Isaac Mizrahi, Todd Oldham, Chantal Thomass and Loris Azzaro,” Jones continues. “One of the dresses at the top of my bucket list is Todd Oldham’s rainbow dress from fall 1994. They’ve all made some extraordinary pieces: Yamamoto designed for David Bowie and Azzaro for Tina Turner. When you’re able to discover any of their rarer pieces, it’s thrilling.”
Naked dresses with history
The naked dress trend isn’t going anywhere, so it’s no surprise that sheer dresses are becoming increasingly popular in the vintage space as well. “Tish Weinstock, one of my clients, wore a spectacular and rare fall 2009 John Galliano as one of her wedding dresses,” Balch says. “She wore it true to the runway version with no lining underneath and I was flooded for requests for its twin or dresses like this.”
Nineties minimalism
While ’90s and ’00s pieces will remain popular, there’s likely to be a move towards more minimalistic styles going forward. “I think blingy Y2K style is phasing out as we’re moving towards a more minimalist, clean era of the late ’90s and early ’00s,” Natasha Fields, founder of NN Officiel, remarks.
Going beyond Y2K
Vintage from other eras will also be on the rise in 2023. “I think the smart stylist will look into different decades beyond just the ’90s,” Balch says. “I would love to see a ’50s revival in 2023,” Jones adds. “I love Givenchy, Dior and Balmain from that era. And the sculpted shoulders and dramatic collars of the ’80s.”
Fashion houses opening up their archives
As more brands reclaim ownership of their vintage pieces, from Gucci to Valentino, expect more fashion houses to open up their archives in 2023 (see Bella’s Versace moments at Cannes Film Festival for further evidence). “For quite a while most of the vintage we saw on the red carpet was coming from vintage dealers,” Jones comments. “But now, we are only going to see more and more rare pieces unearthed straight from the source – I can’t wait.”
Individual style
While certain designers will always be in high demand, the year ahead will see more people seeking vintage pieces that fit in with their own personal style. “I think in 2023, we will be moving into individualism more than ever before,” Fields concludes. “I love seeing people wear pieces in interesting and free ways. I’m seeing younger people going for a more sophisticated, bossy, chic look. Suiting, leather, thin-frame sunglasses and mules are all at the top of my list.”
Originally published on Vogue.co.uk
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