After launching in Paris in January and showcasing at the Milan Furniture Fair in the spring, Hermès’s latest porcelain service is now available in Dubai. Titled Tressages Equestres, the 27-piece set features 10 newly designed hollowware shapes and pays homage to the art of horse riding and its elegant equipment. The deliberate choice to amplify what is perhaps not so obvious and noticeable upon first glance is, of course, what makes it very Hermès.
Photo: Courtesy Hermès
Benoit Pierre Emery, creative director of Hermès Tableware, explains that creating a collection like this typically takes about two years. “Every piece is an opportunity to tell a new story and invite and work with a new artist,” he says. “It all begins with the choice of a theme.”
Throughout the development and production process, Emery emphasizes that success is achieved through a collaborative effort involving the entire team, including the artisans. For Tressages Equestres, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, the maison’s artistic director, aimed to create a visual link to their equestrian history without being too overt. To find inspiration beyond the classic saddle and harness, the team delved into the library and other materials and searched for ideas, motifs, and moments. “We went to the Conservatoire des Créations Hermès and to the Émile Hermès Collection; two inspirational sources for the artists and the artistic director. We discovered a belt used to secure the saddle,” Emery explains. “It was strong and structured, yet completely invisible – crafted from cotton, it was very fine and beautiful. A hidden detail… which embodies the Hermès philosophy.”
Benoit Pierre Emery, creative director of Hermès Tableware. Photo: Courtesy Hermès
After further research, the team developed a design vocabulary centered around this initial discovery. The entire collection is built on variations of this theme, offering a feast for the eyes with its vibrant colors, creative details, and refined forms. Building on its rich heritage of collaborating with artists, the illustrator Virginie Jamin was called upon for her expertise and insight. After much discussion about shades and hues, they settled on a terracotta palette, ensuring it didn’t feel too archival. To add a modern twist, the team introduced bright yellow accents for an unexpected, contemporary flair.
The extensive collection was crafted to complement diverse dining styles and traditions by embracing universal shapes. Great care was taken to ensure the pieces are versatile – just as easily suited to a grand dinner as they are to a more casual luncheon. “Classic and cool, traditional and fun, it works on all of these levels,” Emery notes. He elaborates on the visual details, saying, “Each piece has its own design. Although it’s mix-and-match, everything is thoughtfully considered. The Hermès approach is to create pieces which stand alone yet work together like a puzzle. Each has its own force and beauty while perfectly complementing the other.”
Photo: Courtesy Hermès
While Tressages Equestres is the result of a collective effort from the Hermès team, Emery emphasizes that the artist ultimately has the final say. Even so, creating even the smallest piece involves a lot of people. Once the overarching vision is set, it must be meticulously interpreted for production, color development, decorative details, and more – a process that can take up to a year before the magic of the pieces come to life. Emery also points out that technical limitations will inevitably be encountered along the way, shaping what is achievable from the original concept. All of this requires constant reflection and a readiness to find solutions when challenges emerge.
Photo: Courtesy Hermès
For the creative director, every Hermès tableware project is both an adventure and an opportunity to showcase exceptional craftsmanship. From shaping and crafting the pieces to designing, positioning, and hand-painting the motifs, the number of skilled hands that touch each piece in a service is remarkable. According to Emery, it’s this careful consideration that makes the collection “very Hermès.” He believes there’s no such thing as an insignificant detail, as every element matters, even those that remain unseen – a hallmark of the brand across all categories. “Think about adding a detail on the inside of a pocket,” he suggests. “It’s something that surprises, delights, and also embodies generosity.” Tressage Equestres is a vibrant collection designed to infuse any table with joy. With new projects on the horizon, Emery shares that the maison approaches each endeavor with unwavering enthusiasm. “We never have regrets. Quality is always felt and seen. I think that Chez Hermès, we begin where others often stop. It’s that moment which changes everything.” And with that, he may have just revealed the secret behind the magic of Hermès.
Photo: Courtesy Hermès
Photo: Courtesy Hermès
Originally published in the Fall/Winter 2024 issue of Vogue Living Arabia
