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“Underlining” is the New Beauty Trend Fresh from Couture Week

Dior autumn-winter 21/22 haute couture collection. Beauty created and styled by Peter Philips. Photography: Sophie Tajan for Christian Dior Parfums.

After a summer of barely-there makeup and tentative traces of eyeliner, the Fall Winter 21 couture presentations have returned to moodier eye-focused looks. After day one of the Paris shows, elevated winged liner has emerged as a star trend, with both Christian Dior and Schiaparelli adding an unconventional twist to the classic liner flick.

Dior autumn-winter 21/22 haute couture collection. Beauty created and styled by Peter Philips. Photography: Sophie Tajan for Christian Dior Parfums.

At Dior, creative and image director for Dior Makeup Peter Philips turned the traditional liner flick on its head, creating what he calls an “under-liner”, which pulls upward and outward from the lower lid to create a subtly artful take on a cat’s-eye. “I wanted to create a variation of an ‘under-liner’ in a cool, couture midnight blue that is both dense and soft,” said Philips of the look. “I started by applying black eyeliner using Diorshow 24H Stylo 091 Matte Black under the lower eyelid, taking it all the way to the inner and outer corners.”

Dior autumn-winter 21/22 haute couture collection. Beauty created and styled by Peter Philips. Photography: Sophie Tajan for Christian Dior Parfums.

For a slightly worn-in vibe, Philips then added dimension and shade with a deep blue eyeshadow, tracing along the liner shape. “Using a flat brush, I applied this line of very dense midnight blue eyeshadow from the 5 Couleurs Couture 279 Denim Palette. Then to obtain a soft, more smudged effect, I blended the eyeshadow lightly with a brush.” Backstage, makeup artists then added mascara for volume, and a hydrating translucent balm for a natural finish.

Schiaparelli autumn-winter 21/22 haute couture collection. Image courtesy Daniel Roseberry

Earlier in the day at Schiaparelli, winged liner also dominated the beauty look. Here, there was also an emphasis on underlining on select models, with thick black lines traced along the lower lid. The bottom-heavy eyeliner partnered with a sharp point extending into the eye’s inner corner, almost touching the nose, with an exaggerated wing flaring out and up from the outer corner. Standing out against polished, dewy complexions, the bold graphic lines popped in matte black, with a more retro, upturned cat’s-eye flick joining the lineup.

Schiaparelli autumn-winter 21/22 haute couture collection. Image courtesy Daniel Roseberry

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