Welcome to Vogue Arabia’s skincare guide for 2024. Discover the new face of the year, with industry experts sharing their predictions for the most impactful skincare trends.
Photo: Arved Colvin-Smith
Smart complexions
First on 2024’s skincare guide is customized regimes. “I think we’ll see more personalized skincare routines, as apps using AI expand in the upcoming years and become more sophisticated and accurate,” predicts Bonnie Garner, beauty editor of BTY ALY. “AI can help provide more accurate skincare analysis; it could track changes in skin conditions over time, and help to adapt routines accordingly, all through a smartphone camera. In a world full of polarized opinions about skincare, people are definitely interested in personalization and accuracy.” Sephora has already announced its upcoming Smart Skin Scan diagnostic tool as a bridge between online shopping and the in-store experience.
Bankable beauty
Get used to hearing “collagen-banking” in 2024, as per our skincare guide. “It works by challenging the skin with different regenerative treatments resulting in an immediate lift and glow and in the long-term aiming towards skin-tightening and regenerative collagen turnover,” explains Dr Suha Kersh, who treats patients at Dubai’s 23MD. She recommends ultrasound and radiofrequency treatments to tighten the skin, followed by mesotherapy and LED light therapy, with the combination delivering both immediate and mid-term effects. Hormone therapy can also be explored, with balanced levels improving the body’s natural collagen production abilities.
Photo: Arved Colvin-Smith
Tauten up
One of the most effective services for tightening and smoothing skin, Morpheus8 is headlining as one of the most requested aesthetic treatments at Dubai’s Biolite Aesthetic Clinic. Billed as an early alternative to a facelift, the micro needling and fractional radiofrequency device targets 4mm into the skin to remodel the tissue using heat. It can be used all over the face or to target specific areas like the neck and jowls to tighten along the jawline. Be prepared to grit your teeth throughout – even as a non-surgical treatment, and with numbing cream, there is an amount of pain as the needle and ultrasound penetrates through the dermal layers. Post-treatment, the skin will be left red with the device’s stamp, with the inflammation taking up to three days to disappear. Best results are achieved with two to three initial treatments, followed by a yearly maintenance session.
True targets
The success of under eye treatment masks will see the concept expand to other areas of the face, to deliver a direct dosage to skin via micro-cones. “Consumers are expecting effective skincare with visible and targeted results,” says Dr Yannis Alexandrides, co-founder of 111SKIN and Director of 111 Harley St. “The tailor-made masks target the most problematic areas of advanced facial ageing, with patches shaped specifically to fit forehead, eye, lips, and between the brows.”
Beyond barriers
The microbiome is centerstage for 2024, with protection and fortification a major focus for formulas. “Ceramides, copper peptides, and biotic ingredients that take care of the skin’s microbiome balance will still be hot in 2024,” says Garner. “The new thing about them though is that their texture will be more suitable for every skin type, not just very dry skin types. We’ll see more lightweight, fine textured moisturizers, sleeping masks, or even cushiony serums.” “Barrier support products are really helpful for lots of people,” agrees Dr Wong. “I’ve loved seeing more options on the market.”
Photo: Arved Colvin-Smith
In tandem
Those in the know will be doubling up on complementary aesthetic treatments in 2024, Dr Ali says in 2024’s skincare guide. She points to clever combinations such as non-invasive IPL with micro-needling and radio frequency technology to maximize results across several skin issues. “It results in exceptional natural looking results for skin tightening, firming and lifting,” she explains. As some potent treatments should not be combined, it’s crucial to use only a trusted doctor or clinic for stacked therapies.
Going to extremes
Antioxidant-loaded botanical extracts from “extremophile” plants are on the rise in skincare formulas. “These remarkable plants have naturally adapted to thrive in extreme environments,” details brand founder Tata Harper. “Each one possesses a unique superpower that helps the skin withstand the challenges of our modern lifestyle.” Look for moisturizers and serums which contain cacti, rose of Jericho, microalgae, and mondo root.
Photo: Arved Colvin-Smith
Sun savvy
One rising trend for 2024 is an oldie, but a goodie says Dr Michelle Wong, chemist and science communicator at Lab Muffin Beauty Science. “Sunscreen is only getting more popular, with more cosmetically elegant formulas hitting the market,” she reports in the skincare guide. With Western brands like Ultra Violette and Supergoop now entering the Middle Eastern market, and better accessibility to Asian cult favorites, sun protection is seamlessly integrating into skincare routines.
Skin bootcamp
A new phase of luxury at-home treatments will feature this year, with intensive skincare programs delivering demonstrable results in short periods of time. The gold standard, Guerlain’s new Orchidée Impériale Black Treatment is a four-week regime with a dedicated formula assigned to each week. “It replaces the serum, morning and evening, from two to four times a year, when the skin seems overwhelmed and unresponsive,” explains Guerlain’s head of research, Dr Frédéric Bonté.“Each week is triggering a specific self-defense mechanism to achieve a complete imu-reprogrammation and skin rebirth. Unlike a regular facial, they provide the skin with an unprecedented 30% active concentration of the powerful BlackImmune™ technology, combined with a selection of potent dermatological ingredients.”
Photo: Arved Colvin-Smith
Gently does it
According to WGSN research across 18 countries, 71 percent of those surveyed reported having sensitive skin, an increase of 55 percent in the last 20 years. Look for non-reactive ranges like pHformula’s SOS collection, formulated to create a barrier and promote healing of irritated skin.
Injectable facials
Delivering a demonstrable plumping effect, and regenerating the skin’s structural fibroblasts, polynucleotide skin boosters are a “phenomenal” addition to the aesthetics market and can delay the use of fillers, says Dr Marwa Ali, who is based at The Wellness Clinic Harrods London. “The superficial skin tissue stimulation gives hydrated, glowing, and tighter skin and the deep tissue stimulation results in improved microcirculation, and preservation of our bone and fat tissue. So, over time we preserve our cheekbones and natural fat pads for much longer, for natural looking results over both the long term and short term for the clients having these treatments. I use Ameela Polynucleotides in my clinic, which gives the longest lasting stimulation and results.”
Hair: Colin Gold
Makeup: Barrie John Griffith
Model: Lara Olsson
