When I told my colleagues I was going to be writing about “mouth skin”, I got some quizzical looks. While many of us pay huge amounts of attention to our foreheads, under-eyes and jawlines, the skin around the mouth doesn’t get a second thought, despite being more important than we think when viewing the face as a whole. Whether it’s the pin-thin lines that emerge around the lips as we get older, or melasma underneath the nose, the perioral region (its more formal name) deserves just as much attention as the rest of the face.
Photo: Carolin Lauffenburger. Vogue Arabia, July/August 2020
“We’ve seen an increase in patients wanting to address concerns in the perioral region,” says Dr Paris Acharya, aesthetic doctor and co-founder of The Ardour Clinic in London. “While previous popular target points would be the forehead, cheeks and lips, the skin around the mouth is now a common concern. We explore aesthetic treatments that can help boost the skin in the area, or educate clients on the ways they can prevent skin from developing deep lines, wrinkles and irritation, such as dermatitis.”
Common skincare concerns around the mouth
As we age, various changes can occur around the mouth, including a loss of fat volume, collagen and gradual breakdown of the bone in the area, which can lead to reduced elasticity, lines and sagging. “Commonly, our clients come to us about their marionette and nasolabial lines, which are also known as smile lines,” says Dr Acharya. “These are the two skin folds that run from the side of the nose to the corners of the mouth, and down towards the chin. Another priority for many patients are lipstick lines.”
Just like our eyes, it’s an area that we move a lot, whether via smiling, talking, laughing or eating, so naturally it will change as we move through life. “You get creasing of tissue when you animate,” says aesthetic doctor and founder of Illuminate Skin Clinics, Dr Sophie Shotter. “But lines and other perioral concerns can also be associated with lifestyle habits like smoking, sucking on straws, whistling a lot… anything that involves lip pursing.”
Another key concern is pigmentation – and more specifically, melasma. “Melasma is a hormonal condition caused by higher oestrogen levels in combination with UV exposure,” she explains. “It creates a moustache-like appearance.”
How to treat perioral concerns with skincare
A good skincare routine can help counteract collagen depletion and fine lines – just as on the rest of the face. “Wearing SPF 50 from a young age is always a good idea,” says Dr Shotter, who advises reapplying throughout the day when it’s hot. “If you can tolerate a retinoid around the area, try that, plus hyaluronic acid is great for plumping fine lines.” If you do use a retinoid, be careful not to use the product on the lips themselves, as it can quickly irritate and dry them out.
Sunscreen is also crucial for fending off melasma, but it’s also essential to avoid the sun as much as possible too. “Wear a hat and stay in the shade,” advises Dr Shotter. “Melasma can be heat activated, so even if you’re regimented about applying sun protection, hot environments can also increase its prominence.” She also name checks cysteamine cream as a formula that works brilliantly to tackle this concern.
The best treatments for perioral concerns
While a good home care routine is essential, in-clinic treatments can also quickly work wonders in improving any concerns in the area. Perhaps one of the most buzzworthy treatments right now are polynucleotides, which are injected into the skin to help stimulate cell action and promote regeneration. “They’re great for targeting inflammation, boosting collagen and elastin production, and improving hydration in the perioral region,” explains Dr Acharya, who pairs them with a chemical peel and growth factors in the Skintuitive treatment at The Ardour Clinic.
Hydra boosters – which involve the injection of hydrating hyaluronic acid into the skin, but aren’t volumising like fillers – are another great treatment for lines and dynamic areas, and do a great job of softening any harsh lines or sagging. “The key thing is really to think about softening rather than getting rid of them,” says Dr Shotter. “When we can see that lines are coming but they’re not there at rest yet, that’s when Botox can come into play – some people call it a ‘lip flip’, but it can also be great at treating these lines.”
As for melasma, Dr Shotter notes that peels are a great option to exfoliate the area, while in some cases lasers can work, but they’re best combined with skincare. “You don’t want the heat to activate the melasma and make it worse,” she adds.
Originally published on Vogue.co.uk
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