Despite turbulent world events, Milan Fashion Week pushed on, a surreal contrast to the horror unfolding some 1,300 miles away. Matthieu Blazy successfully took up the mantle from Daniel Lee at Bottega, Blumarine’s Y2K dream girl was all grown up, and Donatella brought sexy back at Versace. As for hair and makeup, this season the mood felt appropriately dark and brooding. Cue plenty of attitude-packed wet-look hair and black, kohl-rimmed eyes.
Here are the best beauty trends to try from Milan Fashion Week.
The wet look
There’s something very radical and subversive about wet-look hair. And it’s such an easy way to make a statement. There are plenty of ways to wear it, too. At Fendi, Guido moistened girls’ hair for that just-got-out-the-shower look, which instantly updated Kim Jones’s otherwise nostalgic, Y2K-inspired collection. Elsewhere, at Jil Sander, swept-back lacquered locks kept things fresh and clean, adding a sense of sports luxe to the minimalist collection. Meanwhile, the wet look took on a futuristic element at Prada, with Guido’s architectural up-dos.
Much like the wet look, a metallic eye instantly adds a sense of modernity. Take, for instance, the alternating green and silver foil lids that Thomas de Kluyver created at Gucci. Worn without any other obvious make-up, it wasn’t about creating a beauty statement, but rather serving as a kind of accessory in its own right. Meanwhile, at Ambush, Yadim accentuated the inner corners of the eye with metallic silver, orange and purple, to create a futuristic effect.
A dark lip
When we think of a statement lip, thoughts typically turn to the classic red. And while there were certainly sumptuous red lips on offer (Marni, Gucci), it was the darker hues that packed the biggest punch. First up, at Gucci, Thomas de Kluyver created an expressive navy lip on a handful of models in a bold celebration of street-style beauty. Elsewhere, Yadim opted for sombre black at Ambush, intensifying the modern-day goth energy of Yoon’s collection. But it was Inge Grognard’s lacquered lips in midnight black on Blumarine models that really delivered the drama.
Back to black eyes
Perhaps inspired by perennial muse Julia Fox, Pat McGrath brought some smolder to Versace with a heavily kohl-rimmed eye. To further accentuate the look, McGrath bleached models’ brows for an alien-like aesthetic. Dark, sexy and otherworldly, did someone say vibe shift?
If you’re looking for something a little less hardcore, Diane Kendal brought some feline sex appeal to Roberto Cavalli with an exaggerated wing.
Offsetting all those gothic moments, skin was finished immaculately. At Prada, Pat McGrath created an almost surreal glow with highlighter illuminating the cheekbones and Cupid’s bow. Meanwhile at Bottega, Ports 1961, and Roberto Cavalli, Diane Kendal opted for fresh faces with almost velvet-like skin.
Originally published in Vogue.co.uk