Photo: Instagram.com/nadine.nassib.njeim
A-listers have the benefit of being surrounded by elite glam squads who know all the tricks and hacks to next-level their hair and makeup. One such secret? Lash contouring.
We’re all familiar with face contouring these days, but that also started as an insider technique for sculpting and framing famous faces ready for the big screen or the red carpet. Just like face contouring, lash contouring looks at things like structure, shape, shadows and shade to enhance and accentuate the lashes framing your eyes. After all, they’re said to be the windows to your soul, so you want to make sure the curtains round them are just as stunning.
Celebrity eyelash artist, Edy London, knows this more than most. She’s been called on for years by her famous clients (including Rita Ora and Ellie Goulding) to create just the right amount of lift, flutter and definition for each distinctive eye shape and color using lash extensions. So we tapped her up to spill the tea on how to get the most out of our eyelashes…
Does eye shape determine where you apply lashes?
“Totally. During consultation I take into consideration many factors, such as: the shape of the eye, how deep or shallow the eye is set in the socket, how high the eyebrow is, the heaviness of the eyelid and even the size of your face,” explains Edy. “Eyelashes should enhance your natural eye-shape and correct anything that bothers you. For example, in my case I have hooded eyes so a curl is needed to open up my eye. Every single set of eyelash extensions is bespoke.”
What are the main eye shapes and how would you apply lashes differently to each?
There are seven main eye shapes, says Edy…
Monolids
View this post on Instagram
“You know you have monolids if you have no crease or a less obvious crease,” says Edy. “Monolids are very common in Asian descent. I usually recommend a gentle curl and longer lashes to be applied at the outer corner. Most women with monolids have a high set brow so a little extra length fills the space between the lash line and brow,” she says.
Round eyes
View this post on Instagram
“Round eyes are usually quite large. Study your eyes to see if you can see any white all around your iris,” says Edy. If you can see any white at the top or bottom, it’s likely you have round eyes. And round eyes tend to have the same height and width. “I recommend very subtle looking lashes, with a light and wispy texture, using a variety of thicknesses and curl. Go for a shorter lash in the inner and outer corner with the longest lashes at the highest point of the arch,” says Edy.
Almond eyes
View this post on Instagram
“Almond eyes are slightly pointed towards the end of the eye with a wider centre. The iris is slightly hidden by the lower and upper eyelid and they are usually wider in width. In terms of eyelashes, the sky’s the limit. On an eye shape like this almost everything looks good. You could go slightly more dramatic on the outer corners and I recommend using smokey liner on the lower lashes emphasise your shape,” says Edy.
Downturned eyes
View this post on Instagram
“You know you have a downturned eyes when you have a downward tilt at the outer corners of your eyes. It makes your upper lid look much larger, which creates more space between the brow and outside corner,” says Edy. “To give a lift to downturned eyes, I recommend a dense lash line without any flick at the end. A flick which would most likely weigh the outer corner of the eye down,” says Edy.
Upturned eyes
View this post on Instagram
“Upturned eyes are as common as almond shaped eyes, in fact they are very similar. They are oval in shape and usually the lower lid appears longer. They are often described as a ‘cat eye’,” Edy explains. “This type of eye suits any lash extensions, particularly a gentle B curl with a similar length of eyelashes all the way along, apart from inside corners which need to be much shorter. The fact that the eye is already upturned means you don’t need to play around with the length too much. It will naturally give a subtle cat eye look, unless you want to exaggerate and make the eye shape more obvious, you can add a few long lashes at the end,” says Edy.
Deep set eye
View this post on Instagram
“Deep set eyes are set deeper in the eye socket which creates the illusion of a prominent brow bone. Many people with this eye shape want to find ways to brighten up their eyes and bring them out,” says Edy. “Deep set eyes are the only ones that require extra length, mainly for the eyelash to be visible, as a big part of the eyelash would be already hidden in the depth of the socket, the curl needs to be very subtle as often C or D curl can look uncomfortable and doesn’t look good on deep set eyes. I usually recommend a J or B curl in order to look nice and in proportion, anything curlier than this can be too close or could be touching your brow bone,” Edy advises.
Hooded eyes
View this post on Instagram
“You know you have hooded eyes when you have an extra layer of a skin that droops over the crease. Hooded eyes are trickier to make up and can make eyes appear smaller and sleepier. It is my eye shape, and even though I’m a make up artist I have struggled with it until I found lash extensions,” says Edy. “Eyeliner never used to show and smoky eyes didn’t work quite right. But now I love my eyes since I started having extensions done. Eyelash extensions reach past that extra skin and open eyes up. I recommend medium length and mixture of a curl with the majority a C curl to go over and cover the lid. I personally like mine longest underneath the highest point of my eyebrow,” Edy says.
Can lash placement change the mood of a makeup look?
“Yes absolutely. It’s all about choosing the length, thickness and color. So for example, for very natural looking lashes (to the point that you can not detect them), I use lashes that are very dark brown, and the same thickness as your natural lash. In this case, the lash will appear totally real like no one will be able to detect it. For a more glam look, I’d use a jet black lash, that’s slightly thicker and longer,” explains Edy.
How to do lash contouring at home?
“You can’t beat lash extensions, but playing around with falsies can be fun. You just need to choose the right ones for you. I’ve heard people say ‘false eyelashes don’t suit me’ so many times but the trick is to get individual falsies and tailor them to your eye shape. You can totally follow my instructions above,” says Edy. “Make sure you don’t weigh the lash line down with a too-heavy lash and if you’re unsure of your eye shape, use shorter lashes on both eye corners. You can totally play around with mascara and eyeliner to connect your natural lashes with falsies,” she advises.
Does lash color change the overall aesthetic?
“Yes. Brown is best for those who don’t wear much make up but want their eyes to appear naturally beautiful. No-one will ever question if they are real (if they are applied properly). You’ll just get natural looking definition. Black ones are best for for someone like me who wears make up most days and wants that mascara look,” says Edy. For slightly older skin, a more delicate color and density will add the perfect amount of definition without feeling too heavy.
View this post on Instagram
Are there any other lash tips that you use to get the best shape for each client?
“Only go to a qualified and reputable technician who specializes in eyelashes. I suggest you go to someone who comes recommended and you have seen their work,” says Edy. And, if you are after a natural look, ask for individual lashes with a thickness not thicker than 0.10mm – anything beyond that starts looking fake,” she says.
Originally published in Glamourmagazine.co.uk
