What is a toner and do you really need one? Here, find out everything you’ve always wondered about the skincare essential.
Vogue Arabia, January 2022. Photo: Claire Harrison
Thirty years ago, the phrase, “cleanse, tone and moisturize” was about the extent of most people’s skincare routines. And yet, despite their somewhat old-fashioned connotations, fast-forward to 2024 and toners are still going strong, with the category often noted for delivering innovative formulations and advanced ingredients to a wide variety of skincare conditions.
What is toner?
“Toners are a diverse range of products used as an extra step in skincare routines to address specific concerns that may not be treated by a simpler routine,” adds Dr Magnus Lynch, consultant dermatologist. While you might simply think of them an extra step for removing lingering make-up, dirt and oil, modern toners do so much more, adding active ingredients to the skin and promoting healthy, radiant complexions.
Why do I need to use toner?
“Toners were originally developed to remove excess soap residue from the face,” explains Dr Lynch. “This is no longer necessary with modern cleansers, however toners still can play an important role in delivering active ingredients.” Today, most experts agree that a good toner is a useful step in any skincare routine. Used after cleansing and before your serum or moisturizer, they can help replenish, refine and enhance the surface of the skin.
What issues do toners treat?
As with most skincare products, toners are a versatile addition to a skincare routine thanks to the number of issues they can target. “Toners can be formulated to address a range of different skin concerns including oily skin, dry skin, acne, blocked pores and hyperpigmentation,” says Dr Lynch. Finding the right toner for your skincare needs comes down to understanding your own personal requirements. As one of the most targeted products you’ll use, toners can be used to tackle everything from minimizing enlarged pores and reducing excess oil to adding extra hydration and calming redness. Whatever formulation you choose, make sure you avoid toners that contain alcohol, menthol, witch hazel or other potentially aggravating ingredients that are more reminiscent of outdated toner formulas.
Who should avoid toners?
Although many people will enjoy the added benefits of incorporating a toner into their routine, it’s not advisable to add one into your regime unless you really need to. “Toners were originally used to balance the pH of the skin after cleansing,” says Dr Sophie Momen, consultant dermatologist. “Nowadays, with cleansers being more balanced with our skin’s natural pH, toners may not be essential for everyone. Some toners can be astringent and have the potential to strip the skin of essential oils, and I would advise that anyone with sensitive skin or rosacea avoid them.”
How do toner formulations differ?
While there are plenty of different types of toners available for your skin, try to avoid those that contain drying or irritating alcohol, or those that are barely more than fragranced waters. Neither will help address your skin issues. Instead, look for water-based toners with ingredients you recognize from other products in your routine like antioxidants, fatty acids, niacinamide and vitamin C. “Hyaluronic acid is particularly effective at moisturizing the skin, while alpha- and beta- hydroxy acids can help with acne-prone skin and unclogging blocked pores,” says Dr Lynch. “Antioxidants such as vitamin C can help with hyperpigmentation and may reduce oxidative damage that can contribute to skin aging,” he adds.
How should I use a toner?
How you use your toner depends on the product you choose. While some are better gently sprayed over skin and pressed in, others can be wiped over on a cotton pad or sprinkled into the palms of your hands and applied to skin. To increase the efficacy of your chosen toner, try to apply it soon after cleansing, while your skin is still damp. This helps the active ingredients to penetrate the skin quickly and more efficiently, giving you the best chance of reaping the benefits.
Originally published in Vogue.co.uk
