Photo: Elio Nougueira
Hyperpigmentation, a common dermatological issue that manifests in darker patches appearing on the skin, can be difficult to tackle effectively. Persistent dark marks can appear following inflammation caused by acne, as a result of changing hormones, pregnancy, excess sun exposure, or genetic melasma. Though pigmentation in the form of freckles is now rightfully embraced, the non-uniform appearance of hyperpigmentation can be a source of insecurity for many.
It’s even trickier to deal with on darker skin tones, as patches tend to emerge with a higher pigment, and take a great deal longer to fade than on lighter complexions. Many resort to using unsafe lightening creams in an attempt to eradicate the marks, which rarely work long-term and leave the skin more susceptible to harmful sun damage.
If you suffer with hyperpigmentation, there are a number of over-the-counter products, dermatologist-approved, professional-grade formulas and innovative cosmetic treatments that can target dark patches with the aim of fading them effectively – and safely.
Seek out ingredients, such as kojic acid, which inhibits melanin production and can be found in Topicals’s sell-out Faded; lactic acid, found in Bea Skincare Brightening Serum, which helps boost cell turnover; alpha arbutin to brighten the skin – see The Ordinary’s Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA; and sensitive skin friendly ingredients like the rosehip oil in Liha’s Oju Omi Mud Cleanser.
There are a plethora of products and treatments designed to handle hyperpigmentation. To help you understand more, we enlisted the help of four dermatologists to share their expert tips on getting rid of hyperpigmentation for good, below.
Dija Ayodele, skin health specialist and founder of West Room Aesthetics and Black Skin Directory
Which products do you recommend using at home?
“Take a comprehensive approach using a combination of alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic, lactic or mandelic acid to exfoliate away old and pigmented cells; vitamin A for optimising the skin and improving cell function; and tyrosinase-inhibiting ingredients such as vitamin C, alpha arbutin and liquorice extract to quell the excess melanin production that occurs when skin suffers inflammation or injury. Together, this three-pronged approach will strengthen the skin, break up the appearance of hyperpigmentation, and also brighten for a more even complexion. Sun screen will further protect and stop hyperpigmentation from getting worse. The Skin Better Science Even Tone Serum works to balance brown, red and yellow pigments in the skin to create a more even complexion – and it also improves skin health for an overall radiance.”
How much time should you give the products to work?
“Anything from eight to 12 weeks to start seeing some results. It’s so important to bear in mind that hyperpigmentation is always a work in progress, and you have to be realistic. Black skin has a much more sensitive inflammatory pathway, so we are always prone to developing hyperpigmentation. Quality products, ingredients and treatments are key to keeping it under control.”
Do home remedies work for reducing hyperpigmentation?
“Not enough to make a long-term difference. You may get some temporary brightening and mild exfoliation, but to effect change within the skin, you need products that are cleverly manufactured, with delivery systems that can interact with the protective barrier of the skin. Additionally, these products and actives would have been safety tested and trialled, so we know how they perform on the skin.”
What cosmetic treatments do you recommend?
“A good deep clean and an exfoliation treatment to smooth and brighten the skin. You can’t go wrong with a chemical peel, which will rejuvenate and re-energise the skin. For skin that is feeling extremely dry, a treatment like Profhilo is great for hydrating from within using high concentrations of hyaluronic acid.”
Dr Munir Somji, aesthetic doctor and founder of Dr Medi Spa
Which products do you recommend using at home?
“The best products for pigmentation are a combination of chemical exfoliants and anti-melanin creams and serums. A vitamin C serum is a great all-round chemical exfoliant as it gently peels the skin, as well as blocking some of the pathways that cause pigmentation. We also prescribe glycolic acid during our virtual skin consultations, depending on the sensitivity of skin. It is essential to protect the skin from more pigmentation. We recommend using a sunscreen that has both a chemical and a physical block, which will prevent pigmentation caused by heat and UVA and UVB rays. The higher the SPF the better, and I always recommend using medical-grade skincare.”
How much time should you give the products to work?
“Generally all medical-grade products take four to six weeks to start working properly. Ensure you understand the frequency, amount and method of application, as this all contributes to the treatment outcome.”
Do home remedies work for reducing hyperpigmentation?
“This face mask has been passed down, edited and honed over generations. It’s my mum’s go-to mask for a glow and also reduces pigmentation! The key ingredient to address pigmentation is turmeric, and in addition, the natural enzymes in the yoghurt are fantastic at removing dead skin cells, and honey is great for its microbial qualities.
“Take 1 tablespoon chickpea flour, 1/4 spoon of turmeric, 1 teaspoon of yogurt, 1/4 teaspoon of Manuka honey and mix it together to make a paste. Add yoghurt as required to achieve a spreadable consistency. Put in the fridge for 45 minutes. On a clean face, apply as a mask and wear for one hour, removing gently with warm water using circular movements. After cleansing, splash cold water on the face. Use three times a week.”
What cosmetic treatments do you recommend?
“The Morpheus 8 treatment, a high-powered radio-frequency facial that can penetrate skin to 4mm, generating collagen. It’s fantastic for acne scarring, too. At Dr Medi Spa we advise a lot of patients to use this time to ‘prep’ their skin for pigmentation treatments, as it can greatly enhance the results of treatments. One of the best treatments for smooth skin is Fractora, a radio-frequency machine, which can shatter deep pigmentation.”
