Hyperpigmentation occurs due to excess melanin production in certain areas of the skin, often caused by sun exposure, acne scars, aging, inflammation, hereditary factors, and hormonal changes. Treating it can be challenging without the right products – but it is possible. Serums, in particular, are effective when it comes to reducing uneven skin tone, dark spots, melasma, and other forms of discoloration.
Photo: Suzana Holtgrave. Vogue Arabia, May 2022
What causes hyperpigmentation?
Dija Ayodele, an aesthetician and author of Black Skin, explains that hyperpigmentation can be caused by several things:
1. Sun exposure: The sun is a major contributor. UV rays stimulate melanin production, leading to darker patches in areas where the skin is overexposed.
2. Inflammation: Skin conditions such as acne, spots, or blackheads, particularly when picked at, can trigger inflammation that leads to hyperpigmentation. Eczema and other inflammatory skin conditions can also cause discoloration.
3. Mechanical damage: Repeated actions like shaving, tweezing, threading, or waxing can injure the skin, which in turn leads to dark spots or patches.
4. Allergies: Allergic reactions, especially those that involve constant rubbing of the skin around the eyes or nose, can inflame the skin. This is especially pronounced on Black skin due to more active melanin cells.
5. Injuries and wounds: Cuts, scrapes, and general wounds can leave behind hyperpigmented areas as the skin heals.
6. Hormonal changes: Menopause, along with other hormonal fluctuations, can affect skin quality, potentially increasing patchiness and hyperpigmentation.
Essentially, any source of inflammation or irritation, combined with the body’s natural response through melanin production, can lead to hyperpigmentation.
How can I treat it?
Preventing and managing hyperpigmentation involves a combination of daily skincare practices and occasional professional treatments. Although hyperpigmentation is a natural skin process, the following steps can help prevent it and fade existing dark spots:
Tailor your skincare routine: A skincare routine tailored to your skin type can help maintain the integrity of your skin barrier, which can minimize the irritation and inflammation that often leads to hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
Use pigment-inhibiting ingredients: Incorporating ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic acid, or hydroquinone into your skincare routine can help regulate melanin production and prevent dark spots from forming or worsening.
Apply SPF every single day: Regular use of sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher is essential in preventing hyperpigmentation. UV exposure can worsen dark spots and slow the fading process, so protecting your skin from the sun is crucial.
Get professional treatments: Chemical peels exfoliate the top layers of the skin, encouraging the production of new skin cells and helping to fade hyperpigmentation, while microneedling can stimulate skin healing and promote collagen production, which can improve the appearance of dark spots.
Why are serums so effective when it comes to tackling hyperpigmentation?
“Serums have a very fine and lightweight texture, so they are able to penetrate the skin,” explains Ayodele, while Dr Vanita Rattan, cosmetic formulator and CEO of Skincare by DrV, adds a caveat: “Serums with a higher fat content tend to absorb better into the skin compared to silicone-based gels and watery serums.” Then, of course, it’s all down to the ingredients. “You want a mixture of things that all work in slightly different ways on pigmentation,” shares Ayodele. She recommends hexylresorcinol, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone (on prescription only), niacinamide, vitamin C, retinoid, and licorice extract. Tranexamic acid, which is similar to glutathione, is also great to use, while “glycolic, lactic and azelaic acid all help to smooth and refine skin texture, getting rid of old skin cells that can hang on to stale pigment on the surface of the epidermis”.
How long does it take to treat hyperpigmentation?
“It depends on how stubborn the pigmentation is, how long it’s been there for, and whether the triggers are ongoing,” says Dr Vanita. “For example, if you have melasma and you’re not protecting your skin from UV radiation by using a broad-spectrum SPF, it’s just going to get worse and worse, especially in the summertime.” That said, she continues, it’s easier to treat new instances of hyperpigmentation, such as dark spots that crop up after pimples or mosquito bites, right away. “If the hyperpigmentation has been there for a long time, as in the case of melasma or dark circles, it’s much harder to treat. This can take six to nine cell cycles, meaning six to nine months, before you see results.”
Originally published on Vogue.co.uk
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