When temperatures are high, we naturally begin to experience an uptick in excess oil and sweat. If you live in a city, add ever-present pollution to the equation, and that all-too-familiar sticky feeling can be borderline unbearable. Here is Vogue’s guide to the best oil-busting products and techniques to keep unwanted shine at bay, especially for those with oily skin.
How to tackle oily skin
It is crucial to keep in mind that the skin produces oil for a reason. Dermatologist and medical director of Eudelo, Dr Stefanie Williams, stipulates that its “primary function is to provide protection and moisture”. Packed with antimicrobial properties that form a lipid shield on the skin’s surface, oil actually keeps the integrity of the skin’s barrier intact whilst also preventing excessive water loss.
So, at what point does this natural sebum build up and feel uncomfortable? Overactive sebaceous glands are to blame and are caused by a range of factors, including your hormones, genetics, age and environment.
Dr Williams recommends a simple yet well-curated cleansing routine to combat this – and says you need to be consistent. Start with an “oil-free cleanser, such as the Delo Rx Hybrid Cleanser, and use it twice daily”, as well as exfoliating once or twice a week. When it comes to supercharging your skin’s hydration levels, “a lightweight, non-comedogenic, oil and silicone-free moisturizer” can help.
For a more potent active treatment against oily skin, retinoids can be helpful. Over-the-counter heroes include Medik8’s Crystal Retinal and Elizabeth Arden’s Ceramide Retinol Night Serum, which also have anti-ageing benefits. Changes in your lifestyle, such as “reducing stress, alcohol consumption and cleansing straight after exercise can also help”, Dr Williams shares. When it comes to reversing damage triggered by urban pollutants such as nitrogen dioxide, ozone and other particulate matter, “vitamin C is a helpful antioxidant which stabilizes the skin’s barrier function and overall health”.
Oil blotting papers are a convenient and speedy alternative for emergencies. They’re often made from a range of materials including rice, abaca leaf, bamboo and cotton, and Dr Williams advises using “them in moderation as residue can often linger” which can lead to congestion if not thoroughly cleansed off.
Taking your makeup from greasy to glowy
Whether you enjoy spending upwards of an hour refining your makeup routine or prefer to rush out the door with a dab of concealer, the aim is always for the look to stay put all day. Makeup artist Bernicia Boateng says that the key to getting rid of unwanted splotches of sheen is all in the prep. “I like to do a good facial treatment to start with – 111Skin’s Rose Gold Sheet Mask is a game-changer. It gives your skin a boost of moisture without being too oily.” Moisturizing well also helps to achieve an evenly-distributed glassy glow. “I love the Augustinus Bader Rich Cream, it’s definitely one of my go-tos and keeps you feeling flawless all day,” says Boateng.
There’s a balance to strike when attempting to emulate a gorgeous, golden hour goddess effect, without veering too far into the marinated makeup category. When seeking to soak up any excess oil during the day, Boateng recommends an old-school setting powder which also works to smooth, mattify and blur fine lines on the face. “The Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder has been one of my favourites for as long as I’ve been doing makeup, and I also love the Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre powder”.
Innovative and affordable, the Revlon Oil-Absorbing Roller is a sleek, shine-slaying alternative to the loose powder – and you can keep it in your bag with you at all times. Reusable and made from volcanic stone, it works to soak up excess oil without smudging existing makeup, plus it’s more sustainable than a single-use blotting paper. It’s essential to wash the stone with a gentle cleanser between uses and allow it to dry thoroughly before locking it back into the container.
Originally published in Vogue.co.uk