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How to Get Rid of Dark Circles, According to Dermatologists and Makeup Artists

If you’re wondering how to get rid of dark circles under eyes, you’re not alone: ​​According to dermatologists, dark circles and puffiness around the eyes are some of the most common concerns patients have.

dark circles

Vogue Arabia, March 2020. Photo: Guillaume Roemaet

“Dark circles are a common cosmetic complaint, and unfortunately can be a difficult issue to treat,” Lauren Penzi, MD , board-certified dermatologist at New York City’s MDCS Dermatology, says. Difficult, but not impossible: There are plenty of expert-backed tips and techniques for addressing the issue. It’s simply a matter of finding what causes yours.

“In many cases, dark undereye circles can be improved, but because there are many factors that can contribute, it is important to remember to treat all the possible factors,” adds Marisa Garshick , MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “Treatments can include at-home products as well as in-office procedures.” There are also DIY remedies and lifestyle changes that can help, such as keeping your head elevated at night.

From DIY treatments to powerful skin care products, keep reading for top dermatologists’ guidance on how to get rid of dark circles.

What causes dark circles under eyes?

“Determining the cause or causes of dark circles is an important first step in deciding which treatments will be most effective for your dark circles,” says board-certified dermatologist Brendan Camp, MD , in New York City. One tip for identifying the root, he says, is holding a mirror in front of your face and looking up. “Gaze up at the ceiling while holding the mirror. If your dark circles improve, they may be caused by shadows from hollowing,” he says.

This is a natural part of aging, explains Dr. Garshick: “As we get older, we lose collagen and volume which can appear as dark circles as a result of the hollowing and increased shadow effect.” However, undereye circles are commonly the result of both volume loss and hyperpigmentation . “The eyelid skin is thin and delicate, and gets thinner over time, so the underlying blood vessels may become more visible, which can also contribute to the appearance of dark circles. And hyperpigmentation, or a brown discoloration, can also contribute to dark circles,” she says.

Hyperpigmentation can result from environmental stressors like sun damage or family history, says Dr. Penzi: “Genetics play a major role in undereye circles, and some people just simply have more pigmentation in their undereye skin.”

As for what makes preexisting dark circles worse? Dr. Penzi points to dry and dehydrated skin, irritated and inflamed skin, and sun damage as common culprits, and Dr. Garshick notes that allergies can worsen the problem as well. “Those with allergies or those who frequently rub their eyes may notice discoloration as a result of chronic rubbing of the skin,” she says.

How to conceal dark circles with makeup

1. Color-correct with concealer.

While it’s not a permanent solution, a full coverage concealer goes a long way when it comes to brightening the undereye area; especially since there’s only so much you can do to improve its appearance.

“Dark circles can feel so intimidating to cover but there are a few makeup tricks that can be really helpful,” says Elyse Reneau, professional makeup artist and executive director of global beauty at Too Faced . One of these is a simple form of color correcting. “If you have a fair undertone , try using a concealer with a soft pink or rosy undertone. For medium or tan try peach undertones, and for deep complexions, try using red undertones,” she adds. “This will help to color correct and conceal at the same time.”

Celebrity makeup artist and esthetician Amanda Gabbard says the same, noting that one of the most common mistakes is to apply concealer that is too bright white or chalky. “Choose a concealer that is one to two shades lighter than your skin tone and foundation. It should all blend seamlessly together, avoiding a stark contrast,” she says.

In terms of which concealers to consider, the pros suggest products that are brightening and hydrating. If they’re too drying, your undereyes could end up looking dehydrated instead. “Born This Way Super Coverage Concealer has amazing coverage but also boosts moisture by 52%,” she says. “Just make sure to go only one to two shades lighter than your Born This Way Soft Matte Foundation as going too bright can actually make dark circles look more apparent.”

2. Apply under and above the eyelid.

“Apply in a triangle shape under your eyes to lift and brighten the area, and apply the same to the top of the eyelid,” says Gabbard. “I teach my clients this trick each and every time. We are consumed with covering, lightning brightening and tightening the under eye; give that upper lid the same love. It neutralizes the lid and lifts the eye.”

Once you’ve applied, blend with either a concealer brush or the tips of your finger. “The warmth of our fingers is great for blending, though using a damp makeup sponge is also fab.”

3. Set with pressed powder.

Lightly set the concealer with a translucent powder to prevent creasing and keep it in place throughout the day. “Try pressed translucent powder, in a compact form, first before loose powder, and apply by tapping the small fluffy eyeshadow brush with pressed powder under and over the lid,” says Gabbard. “For Pressed Powder I love Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Finish Setting Powder and MAC Studio Fix . For loose powder, Too Faced Born This Way Ethereal Setting Powder. ”

Finally, if you want extra lift, “add a touch of highlighter to the inner corners of your eyes and the brow bone to brighten the overall eye area,” she says.

Just remember, when it comes to concealing undereye circles, less is more. “The biggest mistake I see with people who have issues with creasing or concealer looking too heavy is the use of too much product,” says Reneau. “You can always use more if you need but try working in light layers first! It will look the most natural and crease much less!”

How to prevent dark circles

1. Be diligent about sleep, hydration, and a healthy diet.

“Getting adequate sleep , staying hydrated, and maintaining a healthy diet are essential lifestyle factors that are key as a first step to preventing dark circles,” Dr. Garshick explains. And Dr. Camp notes that sleep deprivation can also worsen dark circles. “Sleep deprivation can accentuate dark circles related to blood vessels under our eyes; without enough sleep the vessels dilate and impart a blue/purple appearance due to venous congestion,” he says.

2. Raise your head at night.

Consider sleeping on an extra pillow, or a wedge, while sleeping at night. “I always recommend getting a good night’s sleep, but it can also help to sleep with an extra pillow as this may help to prevent fluid buildup,” says Dr. Garshick. Dr. Camp concurs: “Sleeping on two pillows can limit lower-eyelid swelling in the morning.”

3. Treat your allergies.

“Treat allergies or sinusitis, ” Dr. Garshick stresses. “If allergies or sinusitis are contributing to the puffiness, it can help to treat this to reduce the appearance of the bags and dark circles.”

3. Always wear sun protection and SPF.

“While there is an element of dark circles that can’t be prevented since it is due to genetics, regular use of sunscreen and moisturizer can work to keep the skin in the undereye area hydrated and healthy,” says Dr. Garshick. “Since UV radiation can lead to DNA damage and loss of collagen, wearing sun protection and sunglasses to protect the skin around the eyes helps to prevent collagen loss and therefore may help to prevent lower eye bags and dark circles.”

One of Dr. Garshick’s favorite SPF products for undereyes is Colorescience Total Eye 3-in-1 Renewal. “This eye cream brightens and hydrates, using antioxidants and hyaluronic acid while also protecting the skin from UV radiation, as it also contains zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, offering SPF 35 protection,” she says. For even more SPF, consider Supergoop’s Bright-Eyed Eye Cream.

How to get rid of dark circles with skin care

1. Use cold compresses & eye masks.

Applying cold compresses to the undereye area can help combat dark circles, says Dr. Garshick. “It can reduce swelling and puffiness as the cold causes the blood vessels to vasoconstrict,” says Dr. Garshick. “This is why I often recommend putting eye cream or masks in the refrigerator to get the added cooling benefit or using eye creams that contain a cold metal applicator for the added depuffing benefit.” Some of Dr. Garshick’s favorite cooling products that can be kept in the fridge or used at room temp are Wander Beauty Baggage Claim Eye Masks and Charlotte Tilbury Cryo Recovery Eye Serum.

For a dependable DIY alternative, you can also fridge a spoon. “Keeping a spoon in the refrigerator or freezer helps to reduce swelling by constricting blood vessels,” says Dr. Camp.

2. Apply caffeine.

When shopping for skin care products and DIY remedies to treat dark circles, keep an eye out for those that contain caffeine, which helps constrict blood vessels and reduce puffiness. “Caffeine is a vasoconstrictor that helps to cut down on underlying vessel dilation and puffiness, which leads to a smoother, tighter look to the undereye,” says Dr. Peniz.

That explains why people have relied on DIY methods like tea bags to treat undereye woes for decades. “Cold tea bags are another great home remedy, as not only does the cold provide a depuffing and soothing effect, but the tea bags contain caffeine, which helps to shrink the blood vessels, reducing both color and puffiness and antioxidants to help brighten the undereye skin,” says Dr. Garshick.

If you’d rather not steep your face, there are plenty of caffeine-spiked skin care products you can use instead. Dr. Garshick suggests Revision Teamine Eye Complex, which contains green tea extract, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid, and Mario Badescu Caffeine Eye Cream. “This caffeine-containing eye cream helps to reduce dark circles by constricting the blood vessels helping to reduce redness and puffiness,” she says. “It also works to reduce inflammation and hydrates the skin using key ingredients like caffeine and squalane.”

3. Look out for brightening ingredients.

“Products can be helpful in addressing dark circles, but it is important to consider key ingredients that can address the different factors that contribute to dark circles,” says Dr. Garshick. “For example, eye creams containing ingredients like antioxidants like vitamin C or niacinamide help to target hyperpigmentation.”

Antioxidants like vitamin C and vitamin E also stimulate collagen production, which can improve the quality of eye skin and help address hollowing and fine lines, says Dr. Camp. “Antioxidants can help neutralize free radicals that contribute to discoloration,” he says. And Dr. Penzi recommends kogic acid for treating the area. “Kogic acid also helps to combat hyperpigmentation and contributes to overall brightness of the skin,” she says.

4. Turn to retinols.

Retinols are largely considered the gold standard for antiaging concerns, so it’s no surprise that retinol eye creams are known for helping dark circles as well. “Retinol helps to stimulate collagen production, and also helps to combat hyperpigmentation, making it perfect for dark undereyes,” says Dr. Penzi, and Dr. Camp echoes this. “Retinols can normalize cell turnover to improve skin brightness,” he says.

One thing to consider, however, is that retinols have the potential to be drying or irritating, so be sure to find a product that is gentle enough for sensitive undereye skin. Some expert-preferred options that are gentle on the skin include Kate Somerville Retinol Eye Cream and Peace Out’s Retinol Eye Stick.

5. Use hydrating ingredients.

Dr. Garshick also suggests looking for products with hyaluronic acid, as they attract water to plump, and peptides to boost collagen production. “The skin around the eye is thin, and eye creams containing peptides and growth factors can help to strengthen and support the skin around the eye, helping to thicken the skin,” she says. One of the most popular potent hyaluronic acid-spiked eye creams Glamour editors love is Ourself’s HA+ Replenishing Eye Serum.

Dr. Penzi also suggests ceramides and glycerin as key ingredients. “They protect the skin barrier in this delicate undereye region and help to plump the skin to give it a smoother, lighter overall appearance,” she says. Some of their favorite hydrating products include Paula’s Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Eye Cream and SkinCeuticals AGE Eye Complex Wrinkle Eye Cream.

6. Explore professional treatments

“For those with a true undereye hollow that creates a shadow effect, making undereyes appear darker, I recommend seeing your board-certified dermatologist for undereye filler that can help to soften this hollow and mitigate the dark shadow,” says Dr. Penzi. Dr. Camp agrees, noting, “Filler treatments are an effective, though temporary, way to address dark circles caused by
hollowing.”

There are also many laser options that can be helpful for dark undereyes, Dr. Penzi says. “For those with darkness due to an increase in vasculature, lasers like IPL, KTP, or PDL can be effective. There are other lasers that can specifically target pigmentation that can be very helpful for dark undereyes,” she says. “Resurfacing lasers are also a good option as they help to smooth the skin and stimulate collagen, reducing the appearance of dark undereyes.”

Originally published in Glamour.com

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