The beauty industry’s most talked-about offerings for face and body are put to the test by the Vogue Arabia team. Find out why they are worth the time, pain, and spend as we head into the new season.
Dubai’s most fashionable body ritual
The first Dior Spa in the Middle East
The treatment: New Look massage protocol, tested by Michaela Somerville, Beauty Editor
The clinic: Dior Spa at The Lana Dubai
The process: Perched among the clouds on the 29th floor of The Lana hotel, the first Dior Spa in the Middle East is a celebration of the maison’s beauty treatments and techniques. Combining style and substance, the spa is effortlessly elegant with Parisian vibes, from the dreamy entryway accented with a circle of Dior’s exclusive fragrances, to the spacious, naturally lit rooms. The chic fit-out features the brand’s iconic toile de jouy prints scattered across cushions and throws, offering a pop of pattern against the blonde wood floors and soft beige decor. Ushered into the spacious treatment room – you both disrobe and enjoy your chosen service here, in lieu of separate changing areas – the floor-to-ceiling windows reveal a stunning view of the Burj Khalifa. There are no sauna or plunge pool facilities, a disappointment for those who like a pre-facial steam, but of no consequence if you would rather get on with it.
For the body rituals, a neutral oil is used by default, but a scented option can be substituted on request. Named for Christian Dior’s groundbreaking 1947 collection, the treatment I am getting marries a rolling massage technique and a “skin lift” method – sculpting the form into the designer’s New Look era wasp-waisted fits. Focusing on two body areas chosen by the guest, the targeted pressure encourages lymphatic drainage, reducing the appearance of adipose tissue. The therapist works in deliberate, choreographed movements that mirror the techniques as practiced in the establishment’s Parisian location, with the session running for 60 minutes. The result is legs and a tummy that feel lighter, and as I’m assured, will look leaner with return visits. In demand since its launch, a Dior Spa session does need to be booked well in advance. But despite its popularity, I didn’t feel rushed or hurried out during my time, with the post-treatment relaxation quarters encouraging guests to linger with a cup of green tea and petit fours, all served in Dior ceramics.
The verdict: A beautifully presented, flawlessly performed body ritual in one of the city’s most Instagrammable spas elevates this treatment beyond your standard slimming massage.
The price: AED 1 250, Dior.com
Radiofrequency microneedling
Cornerstone Clinic’s Venus Viva treatment might be expensive, but offers longerlasting results than what you’d get from a superficial treatment
The treatment: Venus Viva, tested by Amanda Randone, Features Director
The clinic: Cornerstone Clinic
The process: An alternative to CO2 lasers that used to be the frontrunner in resurfacing procedures, the Venus Viva nano-fractional radiofrequency treatment is known to deliver the same results, but with less pain and downtime. My practitioner Evangeline describes during my consultation that the Venus Viva works using tiny pins that (safely!) deliver heat to create thousands of mini wounds to the dermis. Of course, the idea of deliberately hurting your skin seems counterintuitive, but the point of this micro-damage is to boost collagen production and the growth of new skin cells. Since my focus was on addressing large pores and the dark circles under my eyes rather than contouring, the less-intense Venus Viva is a better option.
While it required numbing cream, the pain proved to be tolerable. The entire process took 40 minutes followed by a few days of redness that felt and looked like a sunburn. Within a week my skin was back to normal, aside from my problematic T-Zone, which was noticeably clearer, tighter, and brighter. I can’t say the same for my under-eye area, at least not yet. The Venus Viva is expensive, especially since it requires multiple rounds. But if you’re ready to spend on something with longer-lasting results than what you’d get from a superficial treatment, this is the way to go.
The verdict: The Venus Viva has cleared up marks on my cheeks that I’ve been self-conscious about, and left an all-over glow.
The price: AED 1 500, Cornerstoneclinic.ae
Erase adult acne and scarring
Dr Radmila Lukian of Lucia Clinic
The treatment: ClearSkin and AFT, tested by Naheed Ifteqar, Senior Online Writer
The clinic: Lucia Clinic
The process: Acne is one skin condition that leaves behind many issues even after it’s gone, which is why at age 27, my skin is still reeling from the hormonal acne of my teens. With the exception of a few breakouts, the problems that currently trouble my post-acne skin are scarring, uneven texture, and redness. Enter: Lucia Clinic, the sleek establishment in Jumeirah helmed by dermatologist Dr Radmila Lukian and trusted by names like Naomi Campbell, Huda Kattan, and Lindsay Lohan. To target acne-causing bacteria and redness, I trial two treatments: ClearSkin and AFT photo rejuvenation, both painless laser procedures. Four to six sessions – one every month – are required for best results, which means the overall cash and time investment is worth keeping in mind. ClearSkin on its own combines an Erbium Glass Fibre laser that tackles bacteria and a vacuum element that cleans up sebum, doing wonders for my congested complexion without damaging the top layer. What it doesn’t do is remove protective oils or evaporate the water in the tissue. This was followed by intensive pulses of broadband light from the AFT, applied once my face has been covered in cooling gel. The sensation is like short sparks of heat, with no pain. While the redness was instantly gone and my skin looked cleaner, this was nothing compared to the even greater results that continued over the next few days.
The verdict: The removal of bacteria has stopped further breakouts, both small and big, with visible improvement on my scarring. A big win for the acne-prone girlies.
The price: ClearSkin, AED 1 260; AFT, AED 1 260, Luciaclinic.com
The TikTok-famous laser facial
Zieda’s Aesthetics Clinic
The treatment: Facial CO2 Laser, tested by Nitya Chablani, Digital Editor
The clinic: Zieda’s Aesthetics Clinic
The process: Search for the term CO2 Laser on TikTok, and you’ll find viral visuals of red faces that transform into glowing smiles. The secret? The revolutionary SmartXide Punto CO2 laser. Given my battle with adult acne, the positive verdicts online have my attention. I decide to meet Zieda’s Aesthetics’ anti-aging specialist Dr Mutabar Khalimova, where I voice my concerns with acne, hyperpigmentation, and dullness – all problems the CO2 laser seeks to solve. My skin is cleansed, then numbed. A quick process, the SmartXide Punto CO2 laser uses PSD technology to customize pulse shapes, mapping over the face and hitting the skin one section at a time to target both superficial and deep skin layers. By creating tiny wounds that feel like hot pinpricks, the laser encourages my skin to boost collagen production – a trick that will lead to that youthful glow. The first hour after the treatment is the hardest. I would rate it an 8.5 out of 10 for pain. My skin burned and I noticed immediate swelling. Three days later, however, the tiny wounds have begun to heal and scabs are now shedding to reveal surprisingly fresh, glowy skin. By the end of the week I see cleaner, brighter, and plumper skin. Past acne scars have faded by almost 60-70% – a triumph in my book!
The verdict: CO2 laser treatments are not for the faint-hearted, but if you’re a regular with fillers and acid peels like me, the pain is manageable. The results are 100% worth gritting your teeth for.
The price: From AED 2 625, Ziedasclinic.com
Freezing skin for a sculpted-from-ice look
Brau’s Cryo Contour pumps a winning combo of ultrahydrating hyaluronic acid and CO2 all over the face
The treatment: Cryo Contour, tested by Donna Williams, Group Art Director
The clinic: Brau
The process: The Cryo Contour is a non-invasive cosmetic technique that utilizes a high-pressure shot of CO2 and hyaluronic acid. This combination locks in the moisture while simultaneously plumping the skin. The Jumeirah branch of Brau is in itself an experience. The salon fosters a calming effect, from the walk through a zen garden to the interiors filled with neutral earth tones, with a statement terrazzo floor setting a Mediterranean-chic vibe. The facial begins with a cleanser and an intense extraction to unclog all my pores. An enthusiastic massage then gets my blood flowing in readiness for the main attraction of the Cryo Contour tool. Out comes the heavy-duty machinery, which felt like a small pressure hose pumping that winning combo of ultrahydrating hyaluronic acid and CO2 all over my face. The latter helps the absorption of the hyaluronic acid formula while increasing oxygenation of the skin cells, boosting blood flow, and providing a cold tingle from the pressurized gas. The sensation is both calming and cooling but also quite a shock as I had no idea what to expect. This treatment gives you the feel of some miracle having taken place during the 45 minutes spent lying on the bed. I left with my skin radiating like never before. Feeling tightened without the use of injectables was exactly what I wanted.
The verdict: This is perfect for pre-event prep, when you need your skin to look moisturized and luminous.
The price: From AED995, Brau.ae
Brighter under-eyes powered by salmon cells
23MD
The treatment: Polynucleotides, tested by Michaela Somerville, Beauty Editor
The clinic: 23MD
The process: One of the buzziest new treatments to launch recently in the region – you may know it as the “salmon sperm” facial – polynucleotides boast an array of skin benefits as an anti-aging allrounder. An injectable bio-stimulator, the fish-sourced molecules help activate our own fibroblast cells, producing more anti-aging collagen and elastin in addition to overall hydration, improved circulation, and reduced fine lines and wrinkles. I’m trialing polynucleotides at 23MD Clinic, Dubai, a sleek Jumeirah expansion of the London aesthetics clinic. Here, co-founder Dr Suha Kersh uses the wild Alaskan salmon-derived injectable Ameela for her patients and says it’s most popular as an under-eye treatment because it can target sensitive areas that boosters can’t reach. “Polynucleotides are a new breed of bio stimulators,” she says. “They act by creating a healing response which results in a regenerative process.” My concerns include dark shadows and crepey skin below the eyes as well as a lack of bounce and the beginnings of some fine lines, so the injections go under my eyes, along my jawline and cheeks, and in my neck. The pain lasts for only a few seconds. My skin responds immediately with a definite glow in the following days. A month later, the area under my eyes is brighter, the dreaded “laptop line” creasing my neck has noticeably reduced, and there’s a plumpness to my skin, smoothing out the mannequin lines.
The verdict: Polynucleotides go beyond your standard skin booster injectable. It’s won itself top marks as one of my favorite quick-fix antiaging treatments, surpassing what a topical facial can achieve.
The price: From AED 2 000, 23md.co.uk
Entry-level injectables
Aesthetics International’s Jalupro Skin booster improves elasticity and targets stubborn scars through a series of quick and painless jabs
The treatment: Jalupro Skin booster, tested by Ankita Chandra, Picture Editor
The clinic: Aesthetics International
The process: A minimally invasive hyaluronic acid injection treatment that stimulates collagen and improves elasticity and overall texture, Jalupro skin boosters seem to be version 2.0 of their kind, straddling the sweet spot of doing the work without making you look like you’ve had work. Defined as a “dermal bio revitalizer,” these amino acid-and-peptides-packed injectables stimulate fibroblasts in the skin to produce collagen and elastin for a fresher, plumper look. After a quick scan, it was clear that my skin needed to be smoothed out from years of acne scars and depressions. The best part about trying out this particular skin-invasive treatment was knowing that these boosters are safe for all skin types, which took the edge off having a needle pierce my face for the very first time. The numbing cream and expert maneuvers of Dr Mazen meant the process felt like tiny, barely noticeable pokes on my skin. I remember thinking to myself that eyebrow threading was far more of an uncomfortable situation. Dr Mazen proceeded to deliver a series of quick and painless jabs primarily across the midsection of my cheeks to target those stubborn scars. Two weeks after my session, I noticed a wholesome evenness to my skin tone, along with visible softening of some of the acne marks – results reminiscent of a mild Instagram filter. That being said, per Dr Mazen, when it comes to skin boosters, longer-term results require follow-up treatments every six to 12 months.
The verdict: As the lighter, less-intense cousin of fillers, Jalupro skin boosters are an ideal gateway injectable.
The price: from AED 1 000, Aesthetics.ae
A peel for the pain-averse
Evolution Aesthetics Clinic’s PRX-T33 facial targets the inner layers of the dermis without causing unsightly epidermal flaking or downtime
The treatment: PRX-T33 facial, tested by Gwen Montealto, Assistant to the Editor-in-Chief
The clinic: Evolution Aesthetics Clinic
The process: PRX-T33 is marketed by Evolution Aesthetics Clinic as the “non-peel” peel because it works without affecting the outer part of the skin, targeting the inner layers of the dermis without causing unsightly epidermal flaking or downtime. The formula includes a combination of trichloroacetic acid (TCA), hydrogen peroxide, and kojic acid. The TCA penetrates inside the skin to stimulate natural collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production. Kojic acid helps to brighten pigmentation and discoloration, improves texture, shrinks pores, smooths fine lines, and has a lifting effect. As someone with oily skin and visible pores, I was keen to see if the PRX T33 facial would help target these concerns. The first layer of the solution was applied with a thorough, deep massage to facilitate entry into the skin. While I experienced a slight tingling and burning sensation, it was bearable. After this was left to dry on the skin for 10 minutes, the second layer was introduced on top in the same manner. Once both were completely dry, all was sponged off using water to sterilize the acids. The session ended with moisturizer and SPF, and the entire process lasted approximately 30 minutes. I was thrilled to notice an immediate, positive transformation in my appearance right afterwards. As promised, the treatment left no significant redness, my skin felt firmer, and my pores looked smaller. I am not having any visible peeling two days later, and am still enjoying that smooth and tight feeling with a reduced appearance of pores. I have been following the guidance to wait 24 hours before applying makeup, avoid sun exposure, and refrain from using products with active ingredients such as niacinamide, glycolic acid, or retinol for at least a week. For best results, a series of five treatments is recommended. These can be scheduled weekly or once every 10 days, depending on the condition of the skin.
The verdict: The PRX T33 facial functions more as a revitalizing treatment, as it does not cause visible redness or skin shedding on the face. With zero downtime, it’s worth investing in ahead of a big event.
The price: from AED750, Evolutionclinic.ae
A mega-mix of five facials
Athena Dermatology Clinic’s Glass Skin facial stacks lymphatic drainage, microdermabrasion, extraction, microneedling, Cryo, and LED therapy
The treatment: Glass Skin facial, tested by Sangeetha Sagar, Copy Editor
The clinic: Athena Dermatology Clinic, Dubai
The process: Why opt for just one facial when you can get five? Overwhelmed by the array of options the world of wellness offers, I’m happy to bypass the decision fatigue involved by road-testing an all-rounder therapy. The hard-working Glass Skin facial at Athena Dermatology Clinic stacks several treatments at once, and they’re ones that are thankfully more on the side of pampering than pain. At the clinical space, beauty therapist Avril starts with a three-part deepcleansing process. The facial’s first step follows, and it is the deeply satisfying one of lymphatic drainage. Next up is microdermabrasion, a pain-free skin-polishing procedure that involves vacuum suction to provide a deep exfoliation. Everyone’s least favorite step is right after: the extraction of blackheads and whiteheads; a gory affair from start to end. The fourth step is microneedling to reduce age spots and pigmentation. Sharp tingles ebb and flow as the device runs across my face, but after going through what felt like the full-body tackle that was extraction, this is more of a pillow fight. The grand finale is another three-parter, starting with a device that delivers microcurrents which is great for stimulating collagen and, in turn, deep hydration and tightening – think Skims, but for the face. The freezing, rounded edges of Cryo globes are then run across, easily the treatment’s greatest hit. It all ends with LED therapy, both red and blue, which aids in collagen production, reducing inflammation, and is also antibacterial. “No sweating for two days, no intense gym sessions,” Avril says, at which I feign an adequate amount of disappointment before stepping out into some fierce Dubai humidity. I fully expect some sharp tingling to follow, but my face feels fully soothed.
The verdict: While the treatment promises results after two sleeps, I notice an immediate effect through smoother, bouncier skin and a general de-puffing. Colleagues compliment my even-textured complexion the next day. The constellation of spots on my face has gloriously lightened, and everything feels softer, brighter, and tighter. Definitely worth it.
The price: From AED 1 100, Athenaderma.com
Originally published in the November 2024 issue of Vogue Arabia
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