While cosmetic treatments should never be a trend per se, there are some new procedures that promise to change the non-surgical landscape in 2024. Among these cosmetic treatment trends are a Botox facial, a face-firming alternative to injections and a raft of procedures that intuit what your skin needs and dial up its glow. Pretty clever, right?
Vogue Arabia, July/August 2022. Photo: Alain Egues
Right now, it’s an interesting time for the aesthetics industry. Last year saw several pivotal changes in people’s perceptions of cosmetic treatments. The UK government took the first steps to regulate the non-surgical cosmetic industry in order to make it safer. There was also a noticeable uptick in the number of celebrities and social media influencers being transparent about the work they have had done, removing the stigma around treatments such as Botox.
But perhaps the biggest shift was the ‘make-under’ movement, as more people than ever before reclaimed their look by having their facial fillers removed.
As you’ll see below, the new wave of treatments set to dominate in 2024 are less about inflated cheeks, and more about cajoling cells to ‘act younger’, improving skin plumpness and lift.
For those who are considering the latest cosmetic treatment trends, or are simply curious about them, some of the biggest names in the industry help you navigate the new offerings out there.
Cosmetic treatments to know this year: Polynucleotides
Polynucleotides are part of a new gang of “biostimulators” – aka in-clinic treatments that stimulate our own cells to produce more elastin and collagen (the springs and stuffing of our skin). The molecules are made from fragments of fish DNA (no fish is harmed in the process) as these are most similar to human DNA.
Injected into the skin, they “stimulate our own cells to produce some of the things that we lose with ageing, namely the fibroblast cells, which are responsible for producing collagen and elastin,” explains Dr Ash Soni, plastic surgeon and founder of The Soni Clinic.
Rather than a gel that adds volume like fillers, the beauty of this injectable, says consultant dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite, is that it improves skin quality. “It targets skin-damaging free radicals, boosts hydration and improves tissue regeneration,” she says.
She and Dr Soni both favor the brand Ameela, as it can be used on the face, neck, hands but also, crucially, under the eyes. “This is often one of the first places to show signs of skin aging,” Dr Granite adds. For Dr Soni, it has been a game changer. “I have a huge number of patients who are bothered by their under-eye area, but would not be ideal candidates for tear trough filler given the presence of eye bags or lack of elasticity,” he notes. “Now I am able to use polynucleotides, which really improves this area and is a natural alternative.”
You typically need two treatments, two weeks apart with maintenance sessions every six months. “You will see a quick result in areas such as the under-eyes, but the product will continue to stimulate for 12 weeks, so the result is also a gradual onset,” Dr Soni says. “For the face and neck areas, you will see the results start to appear after a few weeks, when the skin quality and elasticity will improve.” As with all injectables, common side effects include swelling and bruising.
Cosmetic treatments to know this year: Exosomes
Exosomes were name-checked as the biggest skincare trend for 2024 in our roundup. Another type of bio-stimulator, they are typically derived from plant stem cells and are rich in peptides. When applied to the skin, they act as messengers, encouraging old and lazy skin cells to act ‘young’ again.
In practice, this means speedier cell turnover and an improvement in “wound healing and reducing scarring,” says skin and laser expert, Jasmina Vico, who harnessed the power of three algaes rich in exosomes for her post-treatment serum Screen Star.
The most potent exosome delivery, however, only takes place in aesthetic clinics where nano-needling (a baby version of microneedling), or a combination of microneedling and radiofrequency, is used to push the exosomes deeper into the skin. “Exosomes signal to skin cells to produce more collagen,” says plastic surgeon and founder of 111Skin, Dr Yannis Alexandrides. However, this communication is most effective when the exosomes “travel within the skin, not from the surface down.”
One study has found exosomes to be almost 75% more powerful than retinol. According to Dr Alexandrides, some exosomes have the potential to boost the production of collagen by 600% and elastin by 300%. Other benefits include “brighter, smoother skin,” says Debbie Thomas, skin expert and founder of the D Thomas Clinic. “It is normal to see a reduction in inflammation like rosacea or acne, as well as less pigmentation. Skin feels better as it retains moisture more effectively and will become stronger and healthier.”
While there are no notable side effects – don’t, however, expect a quick fix. “Because the treatment is stimulating your own natural processes, it will take three to six weeks to start to see results after the first session,” she adds.
Cosmetic treatments to know this year: Softwave
Gravity’s tug is constantly working against your cheeks and jawline – it’s a fact. Enter Softwave, which uses ultrasound to deliver a natural-looking lift for more chiseled facial features, arched brows and snatched skin.
“Softwave delivers focused ultrasound energy deep into the dermal layer of the skin,” says plastic surgeon Dr Andreas Androulakakis from The Galen Clinic of the 30-minute treatment. “This energy stimulates the body’s natural collagen production, leading to skin tightening and a smoother, firmer complexion. Softwave is generally considered safe and well-tolerated. Common side effects are mild and may include temporary redness or swelling at the treatment site.”
Celebrity facialist Keren Bertov is also a fan and incorporates Softwave into her Super Advanced Total Rejuvenation Facial as “the results are a natural-looking facelift, enhanced jawline, and firm neck and chin that will last for up to 12 months after one treatment, with no downtime.”
Cosmetic treatments to know this year: The Botox mist facial
Botox is typically injected into the muscles to freeze them and soften a persistent frown line on the skin’s surface. However, aesthetic doctor Dr Antoni Calmon has created a facial where micro doses of botulinum toxin, mixed with a liquid vitamin, are injected very superficially into the skin for more natural-looking results. “With this innovative technique even the smallest wrinkles are softened without freezing the face,” he says.
Expect tiny bubbles to appear on the skin for 20 minutes as the concoction sinks in. Results, which include increased collagen production and a reduction in sebum for a less shiny T-zone, are noticeable within a few days and last for four months.
Cosmetic treatments to know this year: Exion
Don’t fancy injectables? Exion is being dubbed the needle-free alternative to Botox, filler and even injectable skincare like Profhilo.
Developed by the makers of EmFace (a face-firming treatment that went viral last year), “Exion combines radiofrequency with mechanical ultrasound for the very first time,” says aesthetic doctor Dr Sherina Balaratnam. So you get the benefit of skin-tightening via heat, plus a boost in blood flow and collagen production.
“Another impressive result is that this treatment boosts the body’s own hyaluronic acid production by over 200% using no needles, which has never been done before,” Dr Balaratnam adds.
As for how the treatment looks in clinic, a small pad will be fixed to your back, which essentially grounds the electric current that will travel through your body as the wand is applied to your face. You may experience some redness afterwards and there is also the option of a microneedling attachment, which can be used together with the radiofrequency and ultrasound. But be aware that this will involve one or two days recovery time, adds Dr Balaratnam.
Cosmetic treatments to know this year: Light stacking
While not cheap, laser treatments can achieve skin goals ranging from boosting collagen production to treating pigmentation and tightening a slack jawline. According to Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor, 2024’s ultimate non-surgical hack will be to layer these treatments for turbo-charged results.
Her version involves starting with the gentle, non-ablative MOXI laser to dust off superficial pigmentation, smooth an uneven skin texture and refine pores. “This is followed by the HALO laser, which targets different layers of the skin to address deeper pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles,” says Dr Zamani. “MOXI and HALO work synergistically, while also stimulating collagen and elastin production, and can be used on all skin tones.”
At Montrose London, plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr Shaimaa Jamshidi prefers to layer Broad Band Light (BBL – not to be confused with the Brazilian Butt Lift!) with laser. “BBL treats pigmentation (age/sun spots), active acne and vascular areas on the skin, while also stimulating collagen formation,” she says.
The beauty of a BBL treatment is that you can have this in a lunch hour and go straight back to work afterwards. That changes when it is combined with HALO, which creates small thermal injuries to the skin. “As the stronger of the two treatments, HALO requires numbing pre-treatment and has a downtime of approximately four to seven days,” during which time you can experience swelling, redness and discomfort.
Cosmetic treatments to know this year: RF
When GLAMOUR spoke to Hailey Bieber, she told us that the most radical beauty treatment she had tried was PRP – a.k.a the Vampire Facial – where your blood is drawn from your arm and spun in a centrifuge to separate the platelets and red blood cells that are thought to promote cell repair.
PRF (Platelet-Rich-Plasma Fibrin) is 2024’s new spin on the treatment. “It delivers a higher concentration of these platelets and a stronger release of growth factors within the skin that are responsible for stimulating collagen and elastin production,” says Dr Zamani.
Once extracted, the platelet-rich plasma is injected back into the skin on your face. “Growth factors are released and, together with the contraction caused by the micro-injuries, tissue repair and collagen production is promoted,” she adds.
Another benefit of PRF, says Dr Zamani, is that it can help reduce the appearance of dark circles around the eyes, as well as treat acne scars and stretch marks.
Results can typically be seen after two weeks. But for optimal results, you will need to repeat the procedure at the three and six month mark, and yearly thereafter. “Since the patient’s own blood is used, there is a low chance of adverse effects,” she notes. As with all injections, there is a risk of tenderness and swelling at the injection sites but to minimise bruising, she recommends avoiding “Aspirin, Ibuprofen, vitamin E or fish oils prior to the treatment.”
Originally published in Glamourmagazine.co.uk
