Despite a showery start, New York Fashion Week brimmed with exuberance over the weekend. As showgoers braved the rain-slicked streets on Friday night, there was a deluge of vibrant color and metallic glitter on the runways. See: Tomo Koizumi transforming one-woman performer Ariel Nicholson with a vivid geometric gaze and gravity-defying conehead hair, while Jeremy Scott gave every model in his army a holographic Jem and the Holograms makeover.
Carrying that momentum through the next 48 hours, there was magpie sparkle above the neck at Area and Khaite, while big hair of all shapes and textures was a calling card for Christopher John Rogers. And then there were those subtle punk nuances, from Helmut Lang’s flicks of Siouxsie Sioux liner to Tory Burch’s Lady Di-inspired hair combs fastened with a slight early-’80s edge. Here, five standout hair and makeup takeaways to meditate on for the rest of the week.
The ‘80s Reign Supreme
Citing David Bowie as inspiration, Pat McGrath borrowed from the more-is-more decade while looking forward with futuristic swathes of shimmering color across the entire eye area at Tomo Koizumi. Conjuring a similar mood, Pyer Moss served up shimmering glam rock gazes and draped blush à la Grace Jones with her pyramid-sharp cheekbones. And making up for last season’s lack of color, Jeremy Scott presented a full-on Jem and the Holograms revival, with hairstylist Eugene Souleiman whipping up an array of choppy neon wigs and makeup artist Kabuki riffing on the animated show’s telltale triangular eye makeup with thick cat-eye wings inspired by German pop singer Nina Hagen.
Big Hair Reaches New Heights
“I knew the look had to be something really extreme—either height or length, and I went for height!” grinned hair pro Guido Palau as he created a cartoonish cone-shaped style backstage at Tomo Koizumi. Christopher John Rogers’s whimsical presentation was also replete with ceiling-bound styles, with hairstylist Naeemah LaFond molding Anzie Dasabe and Solange van Doorn’s natural curls into towering textured styles.
Sparkle Gets a Royal Remix
“Every girl is getting the bling treatment,” decreed Souleiman backstage at Khaite while laying strings of sparkling diamantes over Lexi Boling’s long, loose lengths. Inspired by an iconic look worn by Princess Stéphanie of Monaco in 1987, the undone texture offered the royal jewels a modern slant. And in a surprise to no one, there were Swarovski crystals in spades at Area, with twinkling crown-shaped eyebrow decals and cascades of tear drops to match.
Painterly Strokes Get Haphazard
At Ulla Johnson, makeup artist Romy Soleimani brushed pale pistachio pigment on the lids in “painterly, not overly labored” shapes, while at Christian Siriano, Erin Parsons encouraged her team to “let go” in a similar spirit as they administered finger-pressed teal, red, navy, and silver liner all over the lid and brow area. Bold brushstrokes also made an appearance at Jonathan Cohen with gestural smudges of daffodil and fuchsia that were distinctly imperfect.
Punk Takes on Many Forms
Above all else, punk is an attitude. So while R13 presented a more pronounced ode to the subculture through the lens of skateboarders with sooty onyx liner, in other instances it was a bit more subtle. At Helmut Lang, makeup artist Susie Sobol’s nod came in the form of small, square-shaped swoops of jet-black and neon liner not unlike that of Siouxsie and the Banshees, while at Tory Burch, Palau offered “a little irony” to the Sloane Ranger look by fastening pastel combs with a deep side part and sculptural wave in a vaguely New Romantics fashion.