Paris welcomed back its couturiers for this season’s Spring/Summer 2022 couture presentations and runways, with houses flitting between high drama looks and pared down skin. Bold eyes were the overwhelmingly stand-out trend for the week, with Christian Dior underlining models’ eyes in white for the most viral — yet achievable — look on the runway.
Chanel courted controversy with eye sockets blacked out in a glittering black pigment, which observers noted may not have translated to the “pre-war era’s avant garde creatives” reference being made by the house. Smoky eyes continued at Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Ronald van der Kemp, and Schiaparelli, with Jean Paul Gaultier mixing up graphic black liner with pops of neon pink on alternating models.
While Alexis Mabille and Alexandre Vauthier opted for classically fresh skin, healthy brows, and peachy lips, Zuhair Murad added a little bombshell bronze, blending the metallic into an eye-enhancing smoky brown look. It was Viktor & Rolf – along with Fendi’s face studding – which brought the theatrics to Couture Week, with powerful bubblegum pink cheeks contrasting with lacquered lips in a gothic oxblood. The perfect final touch — dagger-sharp, extra long nails in a dried blood red.